DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | unknown, likely 1990s by bolt appearances |
Page Views: | 3,877 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 26, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure
Details
New as of July 17, 2015:
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Description
This is a 'destination route' worthy of making this cliff a target on its own merit. This wonderful pitch is on bulletproof rock with perfect gear for 140' to a bolted rap anchor. Approach via a single pitch of 5.5 uphill and right of the target pitch. The lower pitch could be soloed in climbing shoes, but it is a little dirty, so a rope might feel better. After the lower pitch, traverse left on a good shelf for 50' to a right-facing corner that will take 1-2" gear for a belay anchor. The fun begins immediately after that....
Start climbing up on a flare and some small footholds to get a stance, rest, and gear. An experienced climber should have no problem with this, but the ledge below may justify some pause for a novice leader at this level. Get established in the corner and work up past reasonable gear and rock for 30' to intersect the delicious crack above. Start slamming in jams and cams and work your way up past bulges and jutting sections of the crack to the top. As it becomes thinner, the angle lessens to keep it all from 5.9-5.10, sustained.
This appears to be the route marked "Unknown 5.11b/c" in Hubbel's book but is most certainly NOT 5.11, a grade that has done nothing more than discourage climbers who could easily enjoy this climb.
Start climbing up on a flare and some small footholds to get a stance, rest, and gear. An experienced climber should have no problem with this, but the ledge below may justify some pause for a novice leader at this level. Get established in the corner and work up past reasonable gear and rock for 30' to intersect the delicious crack above. Start slamming in jams and cams and work your way up past bulges and jutting sections of the crack to the top. As it becomes thinner, the angle lessens to keep it all from 5.9-5.10, sustained.
This appears to be the route marked "Unknown 5.11b/c" in Hubbel's book but is most certainly NOT 5.11, a grade that has done nothing more than discourage climbers who could easily enjoy this climb.
Location
This crag lies at the right-hand side of the South Face of Devil's Head. Hike to the base and head right, uphill. Continuously look back over your shoulder for a splitter running its way up the left side of a right-facing corner one pitch above the ground. When you see a line that looks like a classic 5.10 splitter pitch, you have found it for sure.
The face is slightly yellowish and lies above a few lines that go ground up - passing a single 3/8" stud (no hanger) 4 meters off of the ground. The best approach pitch is a low angle 5.5 10-15 meters to the right of this.
The face is slightly yellowish and lies above a few lines that go ground up - passing a single 3/8" stud (no hanger) 4 meters off of the ground. The best approach pitch is a low angle 5.5 10-15 meters to the right of this.
Protection
A double rack of cams from 0.5"-3" plus an optional 4" for the easier lower section and set of nuts. Only a few slings will be needed for the bulges and overlaps. The belay below and left of it on the shelf may require additional gear from 1-2" and we built that on tricams to save our rack of SLCDs for the route itself.
Rapping requires 2 ropes unless you have a 80m+ rope. A single 70m would leave you hanging high.
Rapping requires 2 ropes unless you have a 80m+ rope. A single 70m would leave you hanging high.
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