Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Cal Folsom, Dave Anderson, Don Brooks, 1984
Page Views: 2,045 total · 17/month
Shared By: Geoff Georges on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


26 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is already described as a variation of Magic Fern, but it seems to me worthy of it's own designation as a route. And there is confusion about which goes where. Jon's overview map found on this area heading is helpful here. The Clint Cummins book gives it a 11a, SVR gives it the 10d. The start was 5.8 in both books, which seems right once you make it to the first finger lock. The left side crack on the fin above is the thin tips crux. It is short and protects with small nuts and cams. The 2nd pitch is the chimney on the right above the big ledge to flaring hands ( originally considered 5.9) which I would agree with others posting on Magic Fern, that it is 10a.

Location Suggest change

right of Wet Dream.

Protection Suggest change

standard rack. If doing as one long pitch you may want doubles. offset brass nuts and tiny cams for crux.
SS rap ring anchor.

Photos

loading