Just getting into ice climbing scene, and was curious about the best time of day to climb.
Other endeavors I have done in snow all work better in early morning, mostly because by afternoon you are in slush. With ice screws losing placement because of water from melting, and just melting of ice in general, is the best time early as well?
I think it depends a lot on what the temperature are going to be. For example I have have climbed when the high for the day was 10 degrees (F), so it was more enjoyable to not go early in the morning when it was -8 (F). The afternoon sun was a welcome. I have climbed when it was -5, but it is a battle to stay warm. When it is super cold out ice tend to be brittle and it is much harder to get tool placements to sink and feel solid in the ice. I think 20 degrees is a nice temperature to climb in. Also, it depends on if the climb gets afternoon sun or shade. If the day is on the warmer side but your climb is in the shade chances are you will be okay. If they day time temps are going to be around or above freezing I would say try and get your climbing done in the morning. In terms of placements it is all about finding quality ice.
Lets say the temps have been below freezing for days and the route has been in for some time. You could probably climb the route above freezing, you might need to scrap off the initial layer of rotten ice to get to solid ice for your screws. Always keep your belayer in mind too. Ice fall is going to happen no matter what the temperature and conditions, but if the conditions are causing it to happen more often stay away from the narrow gully climbs where your belayer can't get out of the way. With that being said it is a judgement call, if in doubt don't climb the route. I might climb a WI3 in less then perfect conditions, but not a WI 4 or 5. I have heard of many pillars breaking with people on them when they were climbed either to late or to early in the season or even when conditions weren't perfect. Or when it has been too cold. Ice changes daily and everyone has different comfort levels and risk they are willing to take. Petzl did a study to see when the strength of waterfall ice is the strongest. Check out the link below. I hope what I said made sense. cheers.
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