Starting on nuts and hexes?

I'm just getting into trad climbing, I have a set of BD nuts, a set of mad rock hexes, and a number 3.5 cam. I've practiced and practiced at ground level making placements, but is this enough gear to set up a route? If so where?

It really depends on what you want to climb, and what protection opportunities you have available. I started on a set WC Rocks; some large MOACS; #s 4,6,8 & 10 Hexes; and three SMC Camlocks. It was not ideal, but I was able to scratch my way up routes up to 5.8 in Eldo and Boulder without feeling like I was going to die. If you have crack systems with plenty of constriction, you will be golden.

go find someone safe and experienced

theyll have all the gear you need to start out and will tell you what gear you need for the routes

bribe them with beer, food and gas ...

thats all there is to it

;)

bearbreeder wrote:go find someone safe and experienced theyll have all the gear you need to start out and will tell you what gear you need for the routes bribe them with beer, food and gas ... thats all there is to it ;)

^^this. the more people you meet and friends you make, the bigger communal rack you have =]

Thanks for all the input! If from the saltlake area so I'm bound to find someone with the knowledge and right equipment! I can't wait to get out there!

I am in the salt lake area, and always looking for people willing to do easy trad with me. (I have more than enough gear) Btw reservoir ridge lends itself well to passive pro.

Check out Layback Crack in the Storm Mountain area of Big Cottonwood

J-man wrote:I'm just getting into trad climbing, I have a set of BD nuts, a set of mad rock hexes, and a number 3.5 cam. I've practiced and practiced at ground level making placements, but is this enough gear to set up a route? If so where?

I'd say it depends on the route. That's probably enough for a 60ft route with good passive options.

I lead plenty of alpine and or backcountry stuff on all passive. Although I have 2 full sets of nuts, 2 sets of tricams and a set of hexes, which is more than enough to protect (uh, sew up) a full rope length and still have something left for the belay.

I would find someone to go with who knows what they are doing. You could also top rope / lead trad at the same time and fall on the gear on purpose to test it. I have seen people do it and they got hit in the face multi times when trying to place gear wrong.

You are better off trying to find someone who knows what they are doing and you can clean their gear some and they would likely know a good first lead spot that has tons of gear placement so you can sew it up.

As far as gear it will vary greatly where you climb. I have climbed 100ft pitches with nothing but nuts and i have climbed 100ft pitches that didn't have a single nut placement.