Help with IC preperation

I am planning a trip in November and am planning routes in hand size. My schedule won't let me do any climbing until then except for this:

Crack simulator

I plan on working on nonstop laps up and down, and then after a couple of weeks with a full rack. Also, will add interval training and core work.

Any advice? (besides "If you have to ask...")

Major props.

Don't stress too much about getting ready, you'll get your ass kicked for a couple days no matter how much preparation you do. Then you'll take a rest day and come back and find things a lot more cruiser.

Sweet rig

Is it tough to avoid using the cracks and edges between bricks/rocks?

I'm assuming you don't know how to jam at all and are hoping to learn?

You might pick up a trick or two on your stimulator, I wouldn't hold my breath though. It can teach you for about 2-3 days before you exhaust it.

At the hard sizes, a simulator can be helpful. For hands, it's almost useless.

If you can't climb between now and then, the only advice I can give you is don't get fat.

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:Major props. Don't stress too much about getting ready, you'll get your ass kicked for a couple days no matter how much preparation you do. Then you'll take a rest day and come back and find things a lot more cruiser.

Agree on how awesome your training crack is. Also agree that you might get spanked at first, then quickly progress. It happens to a lot of people the first time they go to the creek. The training you do will pay off, just don't get disappointed if you don't send everything you get on the first few days. IC is an amazing place to climb. I hope you have a great trip!

Make sure you have plenty of the dreaded inch an a quarter size.

KevinCO wrote:Any advice?

Don't pay too much attention to grades. If you have meat hands, most 10s will be pretty straightforward and 11s will be a grunt. Vice-versa if you are dainty.

Wow, thanks for the quick advice!

J. Broussard, NO, but I discovered it does make a semi-good edge climbing simulator.

nicelegs, The problem I have had with infrequent crack climbing is that my hands get pumped and then get very painful just like the 'screaming barfies' in the winter. Hopefully, this training will eliminate that at IC.

Especially thanks for the advice on not expecting to not fail at first even with the training. That is in 'Rock Warriors Way' and has been an obstacle to me in the past.

Very nice setup does it cover multiple sizes. For most men climbing BD #2's is pretty simple. Make sure you get some practice with 1's and 3's as well.

Chris, Yes, there is a wide hands section-almost a fist jam and some small hands sections.

Haha, sweet dude. I wanna come climb that.

Do you have more pictures? What kind of stone did you use?

Thanks, Yea if you are in the area you are welcome. I used cultured stone bull nose (found at a used building material place-Uncle Benny's-I think they still have some and got it for a trade), so it wraps around the 2x10. I used PL Premium and compression while it was drying. Both surfaces thoroughly wetted to increase bonding.

In Boulder. Will be coming up to Carter lake in the next week or so. Would love to climb that simulator!

I'm a pretty solid on 5.12 sport and 5.11 trad face climbing, but I'm absolutely pathetic at crack climbs. I had to french free through the 5.8 finger crack on the Petit last week. I bring shame to my family.

Seriously though.

Sure, My schedule varies...PM me and I will give you my #. Bring a harness and perhaps beat up shoes. The edge of the crack is really hard on shoes. Oh, and bring tape.