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> M&M Wall (Supercave)
Ellen Pea
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 36 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Erik Lawson and Lee Arden Pete |
Page Views: | 6,975 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | arden on Oct 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
1. 5.10a. 40 m. Climb left facing corner to belay stance just below left slanting twin cracks.
2. 5.10d. 50 m. Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.
Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.
3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.
4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".
5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.
6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.
Descent:
Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.
The above is from squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.
2. 5.10d. 50 m. Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.
Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.
3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.
4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".
5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.
6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.
Descent:
Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.
The above is from squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.
Approach
Park at milepost 166, just west of the pullout for the Burgundy col approach.
Hike directly up the gully to the base of the wall. The gully holds snow early in the season and mountain boots and crampons will help, but by midsummer the gully is predominantly scree, one steep step can be passed on the left. There is water in the gully into late summer.
After about 45 minutes, exit the gully onto a right-trending ledge. Start off the upper right side of the ledge.
(From description in squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.)
Hike directly up the gully to the base of the wall. The gully holds snow early in the season and mountain boots and crampons will help, but by midsummer the gully is predominantly scree, one steep step can be passed on the left. There is water in the gully into late summer.
After about 45 minutes, exit the gully onto a right-trending ledge. Start off the upper right side of the ledge.
(From description in squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.)
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