Really good places to climb 5.5-5.8

David Gibbs wrote: I'd disagree with the Red. It is a great destination for climbing, sure, but not in the 5.5 - 5.8 range. Yes, there is some climbing in this range, but the Red really starts around 5.9, and starts to shine in the 5.10s. Most of the stuff under 5.9 is scattered, or trad, or both.

My Bad, I am a 5.8 Top Roper/Sport Beginning Trad and have a good time. I see no reason a traveling retiree should miss at least a stop for a slice of that shit.

City of Rocks/ Castle Rocks in Southern Idaho are fantastic.

MarcHL wrote: My Bad, I am a 5.8 Top Roper/Sport Beginning Trad and have a good time. I see no reason a traveling retiree should miss at least a stop for a slice of that shit.

Were you climbing with a stronger climber who could lead the climbs or set-up the top-ropes for you? That can make a real difference.

Thomas Willis wrote:There is no Silverado in Colorado. You may be referring to Silverton.

My bad, I own a 4x4 Silverado. Must have been a Freudian slip.

Why not 5.10? Why am I hung up 5.5-5.8? Truth be told I am old and fat. If I were physically the same as I was at 33 I would be talking 5.10+. But at 58, over weight by 20 lbs, bad shoulders, arthritis, I can only do what I can do. It will never measure up to what "good" climbers can do.

A former scuba diver I love mixing physical with technical ability to have adventures with nature.

But I totally love the sport. So I will never climb at upper levels. I do enjoy what I can. If you don't like it wait 25 years and then come talk to me.

In the mean time thank you all that have made your suggestions. We are currently near Larrabee State Park WA where we plan on climbing tomorrow. Followed by Julia's Crop and then Mt Erie.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

Climb on!

Hey Dallas! Sounds like you guys have some good days of road-trippin' ahead of you! I saw that you are at Larrabee, enjoy the beach bouldering there! As far as moderate climbing areas go I'll definitely second the suggestions of Seneca Rocks in WV, tons of great sub-5.8 multi pitch classics. If you are headed to the southeast check out the Linville Gorge area in NC, there are many stellar routes in the range you are looking for, including some nice long multi pitch lines like the Mummy and Daddy. Stone Mountain NC is also in the same area, as well as Moore's Wall and you'll find good stuff at both places in the grade range you're looking for. Fall is the prime season for this region.

Dave, don't forget Pilot Mountain State Park...

Dallas
Congrats
the most important thing that many seem to Have missed is that Eldorado is not the cats meow for a number of reasons;I Do not Dare Disparage the boulderrites read gunks west (not east , I goofed that up)
The approaches in wyoming can be long... and then again
When I insist my wife whines,
WHY O WHY Ima going homing! why -o-ming!

Devils Tower & Vedavoo Foreasy approaches both have some moderates but go just to soak up the vibe.
you can do a great road trip that includes south dakota(the Trad.gear can be a wee bit scary in the Needles)but still a super cool place.

The whole state of colorado has the lions share of the best moderate climbing in that part of the country( boulder for ever The Flat Irons) and the following it has.
Lumpy ridge, South Platte, Garden of the gods, Penitent Canyon(might be off the rails now). Rocky Mountain National Park has the Diamond and paved walking trails to Hallets peak. ( plus tons more if you go camping as is the case in nothern Cal.)
I hate to leave out Arizona and New Mexico but if you have to choose the desert and your already in texas then hit Heuco on your way south of the border Viva la Mexico!
as I say so much rock so little time. and it is all good.

Rushmore and the black hills are on the list last week of August or first Week of September. We are hosting at Buffalo Bill State Park near Cody Wy in August, then have to report for duty at Enchanted Rock in Texas the first of October. A short 4 weeks to see South Dakota and Colorado. Don’t forget having to cross New Mexico and possibly Oklahoma (short side).

Michael Schneider wrote: Texas then hit Heuco on your way south

Been there twice, no slots, twice. Grrr! Maybe the third time will work, but probably go Durango – Albuquerque then east to drop into Fredericksburg.

Michael Schneider wrote: ! as I say so much rock so little time

That’s the beauty of what we are doing, the only time constraints that we have are the ones we volunteer for.

Thank you all for your responses. We are pretty much commited to the western US through next July. Then will head east again. There is a lot of talk about the Gunks, so I think we will have to get there, eventually.

David Gibbs; we keep running into the trad thing. So we are gearing up, I would love to dump about $1000 into a full set of BD X4' and a full set of C4's. But we will have to make do with what we have now and expand as budget allows.

BR's new trad sling

For feedback purposes I will list the places we have climbed since June;
Smith Rock State Park
Mt. Erie
Exit 38
Feathers near George, Wa (yes it is a real place)
Had to bypass City of Rocks because we ran out of time and had to hurry to our volunteer job at Buffalo Bill State Park, Cody, Wy
The Island near Cody, WY (spent a month in Cody)

We are now in Custer SD, Sylvan Lake and South Seas, there are about a billion more here but we only have a week.

Our next spots are;
Vedauwoo Sep 9-13 (couldn't get a campsite at Curt Gowdy for the weekend)
Big Thompson Canyon, Loveland
Clear Creek Canyon, Golden Co
Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs, Co

Then run really fast to Enchanted Rock State Park in Texas for our volunteer job for the month of October. Darn, living at Enchanted Rock for 45 days, I wonder what we will do with our free time?

One of the really great things that happens in our travels is that we get to meet some really awesome people. Some look at us like we are crazy (they may be right), other are intrigued, and others are very helpful. We have had a number of offers to lead a climb that we are debating over. There are a number of free BD ovals on our trail on routes we couldn't make.

We may not be the greatest climbers on the rock, but we have our fun.

Plenty of dispersed camping at the Voo.

Dallas so great for the two of you! Before you leave (if I'm not To late) Ask some one about Larry Schaffer? if he's around tell him hello from me and also to show you this amazing hole in the ground (maybe in Middle Earth area ?) A real Secret spot there is a register too. Have fun and post up. FIND a person who's been there forever and beg them to take you to the Magic spot, a real local will know. Have fun at the VOO full moons there are amazing! 

Make sure you get on Playin Hooky when you get to Clear Creek Canyon. It's a fun sport multipitch, 1st pitch is on the 5.9 side. Would be happy to climb with you when you're in the area! Safe travels!

Dallas R wrote:Darn, living at Enchanted Rock for 45 days, I wonder what we will do with our free time?

My suggestion: Coopers. Lots and lots of Coopers BBQ.

I climb out there semi-regularly. Feel free to PM me if you need some local beta, though I'm by no means an expert on erock.