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One week in WY - which sport area to choose?

Original Post
jordand · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 100

If you had one week in Wyoming and had to limit yourself to one sport area, which would you choose? Ten Sleep, Wild Iris, Sinks? I'll be passing through in early October and want to maximize my climbing time/minimize driving between destinations. I climb 5.12- but my partner is working on 5.13a so an area with a good mix of 5.11+ to 5.12+ would probably be best. Thanks in advance for your advice!

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Tensleep.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Let the weather guide you. If it were right now (summer), I'd choose Ten Sleep. In early October, go to Lander. Wild Iris will be nice on warm/sunny days, and Sinks will be good if it is colder. Sinks and Iris are very close together, so you can easily bounce between the two. If you want to commit to one area to spend the week, perhaps just plan to go to Lander, and choose Sinks vs. Iris at the start of the week based on the weather forecast.

Sim Caskey · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 25

I agree with JCM, although they aren't that far apart, so you could also start in Ten Sleep, and if it's too cold/rainy, bail for Sinks.

bwillem · · the wasatch · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 50

lander...go to sinks.

10 sleep up high may start getting snow and be a bit cooler

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315
Sim wrote:I agree with JCM, although they aren't that far apart, so you could also start in Ten Sleep, and if it's too cold/rainy, bail for Sinks.
Yup, echo what everyone has said and check out a map. Just a couple of hours between Lander and Tensleep. Easily combined with a minimum of driving, and worth it because 10sleep>Iris & Sinks combined IMO.

Depending on weather, Tensleep will either be perfect or stormy, meaning it probably won't be too cold unless there's a storm system in place. When it's not storming, temperatures are usually crisp and perfect that first week of October, with comfortable sunny climbing in the AM and the Mondo moving into the shade just as things warm up enough to become uncomfortable.

Like Sim said, a good strategy could be to start at Tensleep & bail to Sinks if needed for weather. If it warms back up again, head to the Iris to minimize driving.

Have fun!
Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

Go to Tensleep. There are far more and better routes at the grades you are interested in. Like others have said you can bail if the weather is bad and still salvage something in Lander, but the Iris is glorified bouldering and all of the 12s in Sinks are polished turds.

Jeff Koperek · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 20

Ten sleep is gorgeous right now. A bit of rain here and there, but nothing too bad. 80s out today...

ten sleep is also just amazing. miles of high-quality, bolted routes. awesome location, awesome rock and very few people.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

You can get way more climbing in in a week at Rifle than in Ten Sleep, because your skin and fingers would be way more intact. May not be much sending, but more days of climbing. The highway may be closed if it snows enough, no?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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