Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Rich Bechler
Page Views: 4,085 total · 25/month
Shared By: computerskillclimbing. on Oct 5, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

You & This Route


12 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This route, originally put up on natural gear by Rich Bechler, is a lesson in sandbagging. Since the route has been aggressively labeled a "squeeze job" and it lacks discernable natural placements at the crux, it was long forgotten and was subsequently covered in bird sh*t, lichen, and broken rock.

Recently rediscovered and bolted, it took some community involvement to figure out the route's roots. Many holds were broken in the process of cleaning the route - the instability of the original rock further confirms that Rich was more of a man than all of us internet types put together. The crux sequences now rely on smaller, albeit trustworthy holds. 

Expect a large fall at the crux, and (if you're sane and choose to clip the bolts) hang a long draw from the fourth bolt. By WI standards, some may still refuse to give this anything harder than 5.6+++, but the rest of the Nation would probably put it somewhere in the 12+ range.

For credit, Nathan Nelson managed to put together the second-FA/whatever you want to call it now. A solid effort to bolt, clean, and send. Props to both Rich and Nathan.

Location Suggest change

This route sits between a bird sh*t encrusted chimney and a chossy, 4th class slab.

First bolted line left of Whiskey.

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts (glue ins) tp chains. The fourth bolt is almost invisible from the ground- clip this with an extendable draw - 18 or 24" to avoid heinous rope drag. The loose blocks above the fourth bolt are now stable - we sealed the back of them with some concrete.

Photos

loading