Blinded by Lust
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 1.7 from 12 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Rich Bechler |
Page Views: | 4,085 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | computerskillclimbing. on Oct 5, 2010 |
Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Description
This route, originally put up on natural gear by Rich Bechler, is a lesson in sandbagging. Since the route has been aggressively labeled a "squeeze job" and it lacks discernable natural placements at the crux, it was long forgotten and was subsequently covered in bird sh*t, lichen, and broken rock.
Recently rediscovered and bolted, it took some community involvement to figure out the route's roots. Many holds were broken in the process of cleaning the route - the instability of the original rock further confirms that Rich was more of a man than all of us internet types put together. The crux sequences now rely on smaller, albeit trustworthy holds.
Expect a large fall at the crux, and (if you're sane and choose to clip the bolts) hang a long draw from the fourth bolt. By WI standards, some may still refuse to give this anything harder than 5.6+++, but the rest of the Nation would probably put it somewhere in the 12+ range.
For credit, Nathan Nelson managed to put together the second-FA/whatever you want to call it now. A solid effort to bolt, clean, and send. Props to both Rich and Nathan.
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