approach from lower saddle.

All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton > Owen Spalding (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

approach from lower saddle.

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Looking up the route from the Lower Saddle. There is a well-defined trail that passes by the Exum Huts at the bottom of the Lower Saddle, up to the the "Black Dike" which can be seen protruding out in this photo. You will pass just left of, then cross behind the Black Dike before the trail steepens and passes in front of, and to the left of, the large pyramid-shaped "Needle." The trail moves left under the Needle and will pass by the "Chockstone Chimney" which will be on the right going up the Needle. Continue about another 100 feet and there will be a small black "staircase" about 2 feet wide climbing up to the right. It's very prominent. Climb this black rock staircase. At the top of the staircase you must traverse right and a little up to swing back around to the "Eye of the Needle" or alternately you can bypass the eye by continuing more or less straight up with some low Class 5 moves. Once you have passed the Needle, to do the Owen-Spalding route you will want to stay on the left side of the large ridge feature as you climb to the Upper Saddle. The trail is not well defined here, but there are many ways to the top. Just stay on the left side of the ridge and be prepared for a lot of class 3 and class 4 climbing to get to the upper saddle.

View from upper saddle. Smoke from the fires made things kinda hazy. Aug. 2015

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3.7 from 3 votes

matt matera

Aug 21, 2014

“approach from lower saddle.”

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Nearby Photos

Descending Owen Spalding, January.

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Dan Carson checking out the upper OS, January.

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<br>
Blake Cassagranda On Rappel

Photo Cred - Wade Morris

Me having fun on the Crawl pitch.

Setting up the 120ft rappel to the Upper Saddle

Start of Owen Spalding technical

looking down at the eye of the needle.

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Panoramic view from Owen Spalding early September.

View from the summit looking back northeast towards Jackson Lake.

March 5, 2018, unusually dry and easy looking conditions and light rime accumulations, caused by severe winds.

Blake Cassagranda Climbing The Upper Pitch Of OS

Taking a quick break to put on the crampons on the way up to the upper saddle. Middle Teton is straight across and the lower saddle is the rock scree far below in the center.

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Noah crossing the Belly Crawl 9-27-19

Looking up the route from the Lower Saddle. There is a well-defined trail that passes by the Exum Huts at the bottom of the Lower Saddle, up to the the "Black Dike" which can be seen protruding out in this photo. You will pass just left of, then cross behind the Black Dike before the trail steepens and passes in front of, and to the left of, the large pyramid-shaped "Needle." The trail moves left under the Needle and will pass by the "Chockstone Chimney" which will be on the right going up the Needle. Continue about another 100 feet and there will be a small black "staircase" about 2 feet wide climbing up to the right. It's very prominent. Climb this black rock staircase. At the top of the staircase you must traverse right and a little up to swing back around to the "Eye of the Needle" or alternately you can bypass the eye by continuing more or less straight up with some low Class 5 moves. Once you have passed the Needle, to do the Owen-Spalding route you will want to stay on the left side of the large ridge feature as you climb to the Upper Saddle. The trail is not well defined here, but there are many ways to the top. Just stay on the left side of the ridge and be prepared for a lot of class 3 and class 4 climbing to get to the upper saddle.

approach from lower saddle.

View from upper saddle. Smoke from the fires made things kinda hazy. Aug. 2015

EJ Follows the "Belly Crawl"

Headwall dividing the Moraine campground from the Lower Saddle. The "fixed rope" would be on the right side, but at the end of July climbers are still crossing the headwall up the snow -- an ice axe is definitely recommended. (Photo credit: Dave G)

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The Enclosure from just before the belly roll on a late summit day.

view looking back through the eye of the needle (which is the lower black hole in the photo). this will be your view when descending.

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Ben rappelling back down to the Upper Saddle after summiting via the Owen Spalding route

View South after early morning start

Unknown climber on rappel

Starting the 120' rap down to the upper saddle.

Going up the chimney

Dave G. at the entry to the "Eye of the Needle."

The most exciting part of Owen spalding. Lots of beautiful exposure!

Rappel down the sergeants chimney

Dave G. on the trail descending just above the Black Dike. Well below you can just make out the Exum Huts at the bottom of the Lower Saddle. The trail passes right in front of those huts.

The wonders of Owen spalding

Lou near the top of the Owen Chimney.

Ian making some exposed moves beyond The Crawl on "Owen Spalding" in mid September

Toping out owen chimney

The rappel down across the OS, saving a lot of time.

Exposure at the second entrance to the Double Chimney.

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Starting up the double chimney on the Owen Spalding Route

Sam soloing up the owen chimney above me. Fortunately, there was only a little ice that day

Me and my buddy Mitch on the summit of the Grand.

Rappel point on the OS.

Summit facing teewinot

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