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Overhanging Layback
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 102
votes
Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bohemian Catastrophe T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Interstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Jungleland T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lanman / R-Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X |
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Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Men At Arms T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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MF Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overhanging Existence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PT Phone Home T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tough Shift T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Water King T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | 1946: Fritz Wiessner and Bill Shockley |
| Page Views: | 7,089 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | bryan barnett on Nov 4, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
1. (100') Climb the corner to the overhang. Step right and then up and left - a tricky move. Continue left and up to small ledges below a face near an outside corner. The anchor is a clump of medium-size trees with rap slings, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.
2. (60') Climb left, exit the corner after just a few feet, and head up the face, past flakes (some may be hollow and loose; one fell in 2013, and see comment below in 2016), to an overhang. Climb through the overhang, then another overhang, and up right to a big ledge and tree belay.
From Kurtz: The missing flake under the final overhang may have made the overhang on P2 significantly harder (5.8ish). I'm 6' tall and it was a big reach to the hard-to-see bomber jug. It's a very committing (but fun) move now. I didn't see any easier way out.
P3. Kurtz: P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG)
Descent
From the top, one option is the Blueberry Ledges/Beginner's Delight rappels, to the north (the rings are 5 feet up in a medium sized tree, on a big grassy ledge). It takes three rappels with a 60m to get down. The first rappel is short, only about 65 feet long, and the second rap tree is easy to miss since it's quite a ways to the left; if you rap too far, you'll be hanging in space below a ledge. The third rap station is a whacky setup of red rope wrapped around a boulder. Despite the core-shot in one of the strands, it's currently safe enough but, for some reason, the rope tends to bind making it an absolute misery to pull.
A better option is to walk south (climbers' left) to the bolted rappel line over Three Pines. 3 60m rappels get you to the ground.
2. (60') Climb left, exit the corner after just a few feet, and head up the face, past flakes (some may be hollow and loose; one fell in 2013, and see comment below in 2016), to an overhang. Climb through the overhang, then another overhang, and up right to a big ledge and tree belay.
From Kurtz: The missing flake under the final overhang may have made the overhang on P2 significantly harder (5.8ish). I'm 6' tall and it was a big reach to the hard-to-see bomber jug. It's a very committing (but fun) move now. I didn't see any easier way out.
P3. Kurtz: P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG)
Descent
From the top, one option is the Blueberry Ledges/Beginner's Delight rappels, to the north (the rings are 5 feet up in a medium sized tree, on a big grassy ledge). It takes three rappels with a 60m to get down. The first rappel is short, only about 65 feet long, and the second rap tree is easy to miss since it's quite a ways to the left; if you rap too far, you'll be hanging in space below a ledge. The third rap station is a whacky setup of red rope wrapped around a boulder. Despite the core-shot in one of the strands, it's currently safe enough but, for some reason, the rope tends to bind making it an absolute misery to pull.
A better option is to walk south (climbers' left) to the bolted rappel line over Three Pines. 3 60m rappels get you to the ground.
Location
At the large right-facing corner uphill and right of the McCarthy Wall (Coexistence et al.).
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