Tender Flakes of Mercy
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Patrick Callery & Matthew Fienup (July 2014) |
Page Views: | 1,542 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Aug 7, 2014 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Outstanding moderate face climbing with great position on the wall and an excellent summit. Almost as wonderful as its next door neighbor, Fun in the Sun.
Pitch 1 starts below a small, left-facing dihedral. Bring TCUs (#3 and #0 work well) for the crack above the first bolt. Exit the dihedral to the right and then climb straight up past 3 more bolts and a 2" cam placement. Belay from bolts (5.7, 95').
Pitch 2 heads straight up past bolts. A short 5.8 crux is encountered while stepping from a ledge up onto the upper headwall at the 4th bolt. Belay from bolts (5.8, 95').
Pitch 1 starts below a small, left-facing dihedral. Bring TCUs (#3 and #0 work well) for the crack above the first bolt. Exit the dihedral to the right and then climb straight up past 3 more bolts and a 2" cam placement. Belay from bolts (5.7, 95').
Pitch 2 heads straight up past bolts. A short 5.8 crux is encountered while stepping from a ledge up onto the upper headwall at the 4th bolt. Belay from bolts (5.8, 95').
- When rappelling, be sure to rap immediately to the right and then down from the rap-hangers. If you rap straight down and then swing over to rap station in the middle of the wall, it will be very difficult to pull your rope.
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