Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Steiger, Rich Thompson, Don Gallagher 1977
Page Views: 7,254 total · 38/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jul 4, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1 | 5.10: Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way.

Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This pitch would be a classic almost anywhere. (~115 feet, anchor equipped with lower offs).

P2 | 5.10: Zigzag off the belay to the first bolt ~20 up. From the bolt, follow the path of least resistance/cleanest rock, generally heading left. Rock quality and protection are good, however it's a bit run out in a few places. Build a gear belay and walk off climbers right to the Aegir gully. You need to end up above the first pitch of Layback 'n Cruz (big left facing corner) to keep it 3rd/4th class.

Location Suggest change

Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.

Protection Suggest change

Pitch 1: 1x purple metolius to #3, 2x 0.3-0.75, nuts

Pitch 2: P1 rack + #00 and RPs, offset brass / nuts preferred, 6-8 slings for the wandery climbing

Photos

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