Colorado Alpine Rock Conditions Summer 2014

Eric Klammer wrote:Any recent updates on Kieners route? Just wondering if it has dried out anymore since the last report (6/27).

Did Kieners solo on Saturday. Crampons up the Lambslide in great condition, traversed Broadway with no snow, and kept my approach shoes on all the way from B-way past the Notch to Upper Kieners and the finish.

The route was in super good condition.

Just did North Ridge on Spearhead today. Snowfield is shrinking in front of Sykes, saw a party go up this morning on it without a problem. Descents are dry.
Also--mosquitos are out and swarming in upper glacier gorge! I'm covered with about 30-40 mosquito bites right now. They're going up pretty high too--I got bitten on the summit. Bring bugspray and synthetics, and if you value your face and arms, use a bivy sack with netting.

Just did Syke's Sickle on Spearhead yesterday. Route was dry and the descent we took via climbers left thru the notch was dry. The snow at the base was do-able for us in trail running shoes; we started after the sun had hit it (ca 8:00-8:30 am). As Anfarwal suggested, bug spray and netting would be needed if bivying. Tons of marmots, and they are also at the summit so watch your packs and helmets if you set them down while enjoying the amazing view!

Did pervertical yesterday (8/22) Spectacular Day!!!! Micro Spikes were very useful to get to the N. Chimney. The route was totally dry, no seepage (not that you would have to worry about that on that route). Tons of people doing D7 and the Casual Route, so I'm assuming they were dry as well.

Keyhole conditions are very alpine in flavor right now. Lots of verglas around 13,500' with patches of snow in the upper Trough, Narrows and Homestretch. Be prepared if you're heading up that way.

The Spearhead looked wet in the usual spots. The ledges below Syke's looked very wet. The south/east lower ramps (Below Age Axe and East Prow) looked wet. I saw and heard a party on North Ridge but can't comment on conditions. It should likely be dry today if it doesn't rain up there...

Chief's Head looked totally soaked.

But more importantly, has anyone been on/around The Diamond in the last few days? I got eyes on it yesterday and I didn't want to believe that it was very wet but, sadly, that may be the case. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks

UPDATE: Spearhead is mostly dry. Below the Eye of Mordor is wet so accessing routes over there may be problematic. Chiefs Head is still streaking but should be dry sooner than later. 8/3/14

Notchtop Spiral route was slightly wet but overall super safe and fun Saturday.

Anyone been up (or down) the Cables route on Longs recently? Was thinking of taking my daughter up it this week if conditions were reasonable.

Emil Briggs wrote:Anyone been up (or down) the Cables route on Longs recently? Was thinking of taking my daughter up it this week if conditions were reasonable.

I was there the weekend before and it was pretty wet (aka waterfall type of wetness). I also was rappeling in the rain, so I am sure that wasn't helping. But even looking at it before the rain started showed a fair amount of water.

Diamond also looked wet, but again, it was shortly after it rained.
Cables.

Cables.

Diamond.

wow lambs looks pretty decent.

Ellingwood ledges still dry as of today. Trickle of negligible water running down the 4th class direct gully on the Needle and dry in the standard gully. Some water across the approach trails.

Epic day on the Diamond yesterday. The snowfield was a real pain in the ass at zero dark thirty in approach shoes with no ice axe or trekking poles. I would highly recommend yak trax, trekking poles or an ice axe for the approach to the North chimney. Wear it on your pack to Broadway and then leave it clipped to the innumerable tat that's scattered about.

To clarify I don't mean all three, just any one of the aforementioned accoutrements will serve you well

Anyone know if there is a lot of snow going up to Sharkstooth?

Spiral? I'm assuming it's fine, but haha this year you never know.

Spiral/Notchtop area is all dry and been quiet the few recent times I've been up there,

Joe F. wrote:Anyone know if there is a lot of snow going up to Sharkstooth?

Was up there 2 weeks ago and there was still a fair sized snow field before gaining the talus leading up to the Sharkstooth, don't know if there is a path to the left that avoids the snow or not. Micro spikes would have made for an easy crossing.

Hey guys,

Heading to Spearhead this weekend...think it will be epic???

Joe F. wrote:Anyone know if there is a lot of snow going up to Sharkstooth?

Was there 2 days ago. There is snow in only 2 spots, both before the bivy site (on the obvious flat cliff below Sharkstooth). We crossed both without crampons or ice axes, just kicked a few steps with boots. My partner, who was in approach shoes thought that light crampons would have been better.
She noted that it would be a bad slide on the snow slope just before the bivy.

There is water at the bivy. Marmots and mosquitoes are active.

Scott McMahon wrote:wow lambs looks pretty decent.

You aren't kidding!

On a serious note, I was wondering if anyone has been up Lambs lately? I attempted Kiener's last year in late August, and as soon as the sun it the top of the slide it just started consistently spewing sizable rocks and ice every half a minute or so. We called it, and I vowed to come back this year. Wellllll...the summer got away from me, but I'm hoping to have a go at it this week maybe?

Thanks!

It not being black is a great sign that it's pretty great for this time of year.

Two rocks are sufficient for the approach to North Chimney.