Mountain Project Logo

Climbing Access in Conservation Areas

Original Post
MacM · · Tucson/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 675

Hey Everyone,

Looking for some thoughts on establishing a climbing area in a conservation area. I understand and I'm fairly familiar with current policies for wilderness areas, but how do these policies differ from "conservation areas?"
If it matters, I am looking into an area in Arizona that falls within the Maricopa County Parks and Recreation area, so it's technically in the regional park system.

I'm basically looking for whether or not it is okay to even climb potential routes, with or without bolts, without consent from some land manager etc. and then if the routes are climbable what the procedure would be for adding bolts, if needed.

Cheers,
Mac

SmartRockClimbing · · Oceano, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

Hi there Mac,

Developing new routes is something that I am interested in as well. My gut tells me that a good amount of the law related to restricted area is locally administered.

Though I don't know the answers for you I bet the Access Fund (www.accessfund.org) would probably have some resources for you.

Best wishes on your journey,

Pieter Neethling
SmartRockClimbing.org

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Go for it...

Better to ask for forgiveness than permission.

Whats the worse that could happen?

You can wear pink undies, for about 6 mo, and live on baloney sandwiches.

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55
At least as of 2-12-13 this appears to be the status:

Please note:

I live in Pima County and do not keep track of this information. There are several people on MP from Phoenix who are much more knowledgable. Hopefully, they will comment. (Paging Greg.)

You might have better luck if you move your post into the Arizona forum.

Many years ago there was some good climbing in several of the parks.

Scott Mc


ITEM #10 – Feasibility of Rock Climbing in Maricopa County Parks – Jennifer Waller, Operations Manager, Maricopa County Parks and Recreation Department and Curt Shannon, Arizona Policy Analyst, Access Fund –

PRESENTATION/INFORMATION/DISCUSSION ITEM
„« Ms. Waller presented a request from the Access Fund to reconsider the no-climbing rule within the County Parks. The goal of the presentation is to start discussion regarding the request and obtain guidance from the Commission. Research of the history of the Parks Master Plan does not reflect that rock climbing is an acceptable activity. Current Park rules state that participants are prohibited to leave a designated trail or walkway between trailheads. Ms. Waller discussed some of the many internal reviews that staff will need to look at if the direction of the Commission is to move forward and pursue a policy change in this area.

„« Mr. Shannon provided an overview of Access Fund’s history, mission and programs. They are a climbing advocacy organization. Access Fund can provide assistance in development of a climbing management plan and could possibly involve some insurance coverage to help mitigate liability issues. Access Fund believes that similar to hiking, climbing is a legitimate use of public lands. Mr. Shannon has provided a recent rock climbing assessment report to staff.

„« Director Cardin discussed with the Commission some of their primary roles, especially with respect to dealing with the public. Commissioners asked various questions and decided it would be beneficial to receive information in steps as staff moves through the due diligence process.

Here is the link:
maricopa.gov/parks/commissi…
Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 181

A few years back, they quietly banned climbing in the Maricopa County Parks. There was nothing you could describe as public notice at the time, especially within the climbing community. Just one day, we found out climbing had been banned.

There have been some efforts in the last few years to try to re-establish climbing as a valid activity in the Maricopa County Parks (this specifically applies to established routes in the White Tanks and Santans, but would apply to the whole park system hopefully). I'm not sure what the latest status is on that effort, but will try to get someone to comment.

As Scott pointed out...there's a ban on climbing currently, bolting or not. Your choice where to go from there.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Gee wizz I thought that folks in AZ were FREE.

Let the cops chase you around, there are far more climbers then them. The $$$$ are not there to have the cops out in the field, when they could be eating donuts close to home.

Only half joking, pretty sad that your county closes off the parks. They are YOUR parks you know.

Make it an issue, get out and campain for new county officals.

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 181

Guy, you can probably make a pretty good guess at the quality of the typical climbing in the County park areas here when they ban climbing and nobody notices for quite a while. Still, it's a shame to lose any climbing, so worth the work to try to re-establish access. I believe the nature of the rock (esp. in the White Tank Mountains) and the prospect of climbing incidents/accidents due directly to rock quality had something to do with the decision to disallow climbing.

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

As far as probability of never getting prosecuted

for climbing in the Maricopa County Parks,

you might talk to "Idsclimber" about his experience in the Santans:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/santans/107118847

MacM · · Tucson/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 675

Thanks Scott for those minutes, hopefully the status has progressed beyond the point of just recognition that people want to climb in the parks. Also, thank you Greg for your input as well, it helps a lot.

I have already had my run-in with the cops for climbing on Pinnacle Peak after the park closed back in '09. That was one of the dumbest experiences I've ever encountered with the Scottsdale Police. I was a minor at the time and just served time at the park one weekend, my friend wasn't so lucky and the trespassing charge stuck. Wasn't even our fault...damn bolts got chopped that were supposed to be there. Long story.

Looking further into the area that piqued my interest for route development, climbing would most likely never be allowed due to its proximity to Hohokam ruins. Elephant Mountain in Cave Creek, next to Spur Cross Ranch may ring a bell to some of you guys...

So I appreciate the assistance everyone, but unfortunately I do not have the time to go against the Maricopa County Parks and Recreation to fight for it. Not to mention I'm not even sure of the quality of the rock and how the routes would be in that specific area. If someone else can though, that would be great and I know the AZ climbing community would thank you for it.

Cheers,
Mac

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

GREG.... I just looked at the Santans Page... On MP its not noted that the place is closed to climbing. I was going to go climbing there last year when I was in Phoenix last winter working at the races.

idsclimber, only posted the fact that it may cost you your wallet.

If the stone is not that good then no big deal, let the cops think they are incharge.

It just seems to me if the public policy change took place in 24 hours, sombody didn't follow the law about these things.

locally we have a little issue with a closed place......

As a child of the 60's I think its everybodys duty to practice a little civil disobedience.

Make them put money into keeping you out and see what happens.

MacM.... good for you.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

I've climbed a bit in the Santans and White Tanks, two of the climbing areas in Maricopa County Parks. Neither of them is inspiring but they are close when you are pressed for time.

Good luck changing the policy. I would support your efforts to change this Mac.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Climbing Access in Conservation Areas"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.