Bolted routes on penitentiary wall?

Just curious if anyone had and info on the couple of bolted routes at the base of (west end) penitentiary wall. They look fun but there's nothing about any sport routes on mp. Mostly looking for name/grade and any FA details would be icing on the cake :)
Thanks all!
P.S. the routes aren't near any of the the super sweet cracks that abound at the wall, nor are they very new. I just don't know anything about em and was curious.

Well I briefly spoke with the guy who put the routes up. He wants to remain anonymous, so I'm gonna leave names out of it, but he said the left route goes 5.10d or 5.11 and the right hand route goes 5.9 or 5.9+.
I tried the right hand route, it was awesome but I thought it was a little harder then the given rating after the 6th bolt. Also, the person who put up the route recommends you take a bd .5 for between the 5 & 6th bolt and a .3 for the small run-out between the last bolt and chains.

I didn't try the left hand route.

Are these lines to the lookers right of Jail Bait?

Yep, they're on the climbers right, all the way at the west end of the crag, so they're actually the first lines you walk past on approach. The right climb is really fun. I definitely recommend doing it while you're up there.

Greg G wrote:Are these lines to the lookers right of Jail Bait?

The two routes spoke of here are left of Jailbait. There is another route which appears to have been put in by the same mystery bolter to the left of Life Sentence. Well protected, seems to hard hard 10/easy 11. None of these were up there last time I was there say 4 years ago.

Whoever put these up should add them to MP. Good additions to the wall.

Did the two on the right today. The left of these uses the start shown in ruckman as S&M, 10c R back in the day. I did it years ago on gear, maybe finishing on the right bolt line but I'm unsure. I'd call the right line either 8 or 9. The left line seems cleaner and perhaps easier now. I would call it 9 or maybe 9+, no way its 10 or 11. Both are nice lines on super rock. We did not supplement with gear.

After several discussions with members of the climbing community regarding the retro-bolting that was done on the right side of Penitentiary Wall. The bolts have been removed. The upper anchors remain. The reasons the bolts were removed are as follows:

1. They were on well established existing routes (S&M and Jailbait).

2. They were on a publicized extension of an existing route (B&D)

3. They were on variations of an existing route (Jailbait)

4. The routes in question have been climbed with gear.

5. Many of the bolts were placed with in approximately 2 feet of gear placements.

6. It does not appear that the person whom added the bolts made any attempt to contact the FA parties about retro bolting the routes. Of which many are still active in the climbing community.

7. It does not appear that the person whom added the bolts made any attempt to query the climbing community about retro bolting established routes.

A total of 23 bolts were removed with the holes patched. A said above, the anchors, though not needed remain as they make the combination of S&M with B&D a fully independent line from that of Jailbait. The B&D finish to S&M previously shared the last few feet with Jailbait and utilized those anchors. (Note the description of B&D that was posted in the comments for S&M some two years ago has now been incorporated into the S&M description).

Attempts have been made to contact the person responsible for the retro bolting to return the hangers. If hangers are not claimed by the end of the month they will be donated to the rebolting efforts by the climbing community.

A few additional comments. In talking with folks regarding this incident, the totality of the retro bolting was felt to be pretty egregious. Some were surprised by the shear number of bolts placed. Routes that are at best 80-85 feet long and were bolted more like a gym route than a sport route. In most cases, such bolting would not be condoned by the climbers community or with land managers.

Speaking of land managers and while not a factor in the decision to remove the bolts, folks should realize that much of the climbing on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon is within the Twin Peaks Wilderness. As such, there is a “higher” standard for management that prohibits the usage of power drills (hand drilling is still allowed).

I hope the above provides enough information on the situation and in the future folks will do their homework before placing bolts on established routes. There are many routes out there that may not look like trad routes or a variation but in fact they are. So when in doubt post up before ya bolt up.

Thanks

This scandal will not stand, man!

A bolted line had appeared on the left side of the cliff, just to the left of Jack the Ripper, that seems to squeeze in on Life Sentence. Did those bolts get pulled?