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It's A Wanderful Life
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
Type: | Sport, 190 ft (58 m) |
FA: | JSt, EFR, Justin Manring,'11 |
Page Views: | 956 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 25, 2011 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
70M ROPE REQUIRED A long and winding route that takes a lifetime to get up. Really cool to do as one long pitch just be sure you are not using those silly little dogbones or the rope drag will make the top really unpleasant. Can be done as two pitches but it is really cool to do it as one. Be sure to use long (not quite shoulder length) draws at the two bolts below the big roof to reduce rope drag. After the first set of anchors do not be afraid to wander way left to keep this climb in the grade. The climb wanders way way left then up then way back to the right to surmount the roof at the right apex. Tricky to figure out but really good when you do. You can also do the first pitch as it is a good warm-up for the crag and is probably 10-.
We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other. If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.
We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other. If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.
8 Comments