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Best Alpine Climbing Shoe/Hiker

Original Post
Prametheus · · Teton Valley · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Hey!

I live in Jackson, WY and am looking for the best shoe for climbing in the Tetons. Looking for a shoe that is super comfortable for 15 miles days but would be really solid on moderate pitches (5.5-5.7). I've done some research and the 5.10 camp 4 seems like it would be pretty dang solid. Do any of you nerds have any input or alpine shoes that you are way psyched on?

Happy climbing!

Prametheus

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

Sportiva Ganda.

Best climbing approach shoe I've ever used.

Expensive, but more durable than most, and climbs as well as a mid-level rock shoe.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

I really like my Adidas Terrex approach shoes.

michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120

+1 on the Gandas. The Guides hike better but the low-tops climb a lot better.

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

+ 1 for Ganda for alpine rock. Smears and edges well. I have relatively wide feet. When sized for climbing, I find it relatively uncomfortable for long-distance hiking.

If you have wider feet, and want 15 mi/day hiking comfort, the 5.10 tennie is a good choice, but it does not edge well.

For Alpine Ice & Mixed, the Scarpa Rebel Carbon would be a good choice. However, it does not smear well compared to the shoes above.

The Call Of K2 Lou · · Squamish, BC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 20

The Gandas and Guide Tennies will do a little better on the climbing. The Camp Fours are definitely the most durable of the bunch. They're bulkier and more like everyday shoes, but they can get the job done on easy climbs.

Prametheus · · Teton Valley · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Hey everyone, thank you for all of your input. The Gandas look really sweet, but I am worried that they are too climbing-centric. Time spent on rock and hiking trail will probably be 50/50, so I am looking for a solid all around shoe. It seems like the .10 Guides might be the way to go. Has anyone logged really long days with the Gandas? Is there good hiking support? If you were in my shoes (pun intended), would you get the guide tennies or the gandas (assuming price is irrelevant).

Once again, I appreciate the help. I am going to try on both of these shoes in the near future!!

The Call Of K2 Lou · · Squamish, BC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 20
outdoorgearlab.com/a/11088/…

The author wore Gandas, his partner wore unknown Scarpas (gear list towards the bottom).
OGL also has an approach shoe review:
outdoorgearlab.com/Approach…

Watching this thread with interest as I love doing scrambles and traverses. I never rope up and rarely go beyond 4th class or 5.easy, so any hiking shoe with sticky yet durable rubber works for me. I prefer something with an actual tread because, living in BC, the trail's gonna be muddy somewhere.
S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

Salewa Firetail

michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120

I've done 15 mile days in my Gandas and recently I used them for a 16 mile day hauling 80 lbs. uphill. They hike great.

Jeff Gicklhorn · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2008 · Points: 295

I have a pair of the Salewea Wildfires. They're lightweight and hike extremely well but do not climb nearly as well as I'd like them to.

The mountain trainer may be more up you're ally. They are a little heavier and stiffer, but have a standard approach shoe outsole with stickier rubber.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Another benefit of the Guide is that they can be resoled. They don't have enough cushioning for me for hiking, sadly. I've been using the Salewa Wildfires or trail runners for extra long approaches. The Wildfires have been fine for climbing up to mid-5th (haven't tried anything harder), including in wet/snowy conditions.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

I've done the Grand a couple times in these

sportiva.com/products/footw…

and I feel comfortable up to about 5.7 (both edging and smearing) in them. I've done 17 miles in them in a day and, while they're not super padded, I was still pretty comfortable.

Mikecease · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 10

I reccomend the LS xplorer. I used the Gandas for a couple season but have made the switch. They climb fifth class well and are dramatic better hikers than the Gandas. Also they don't fill up with rocks as easily and they are mesh so when you get them wet they dry much quicker than Gandas and other leather shoes. They're also much lighter than the Ganda which is nice. Caldwell and Honnold chose to use xplorers over Gandas down in Patagonia this season. Solid endorsement.

Mikecease · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 10

I reccomend the LS xplorer. I used the Gandas for a couple season but have made the switch. They climb fifth class well and are dramatic better hikers than the Gandas. Also they don't fill up with rocks as easily and they are mesh so when you get them wet they dry much quicker than Gandas and other leather shoes. They're also much lighter than the Ganda which is nice. Caldwell and Honnold chose to use xplorers over Gandas down in Patagonia this season. Solid endorsement.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I have an older pair of Salewa Firetail. They hike great and are very durable but the rubber is not very sticky. I switched to the Scarpa Crux, they are sticky and climb great but are very soft in the midsole. I bought the Crux for $65 on sale.

I still have a pair of older Scarpa Dahrma but they changed shapes when I had them resoled.

Rick Carpenter · · Marion, NC · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,315
Kai Larson wrote:Sportiva Ganda. Best climbing approach shoe I've ever used. Expensive, but more durable than most, and climbs as well as a mid-level rock shoe.
I second the Ganda, rad shoe
TacoDelRio · · All up in yo bidniss. · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,356

I prefer the Gandalfs for something with maybe a little less hiking than climbing. They also feel good aid climbing, and switching from aid to free. I have big wide feet (13), and find they are at my limit for width, but that seems typical for Italian shoes. They are much more durable and better made (not that the Guide Tennie is poorly made, it's just fine).

I prefer the Guide Tennies (previous model without extended rand) for lots of walking around. They're more sensitive so I feel comfortable soloing moderate ground in them from time to time, but they are soft and don't edge well as a result. They're also more comfortable to wear on a daily basis, though a helluva lot less swag as those pimpass Gandalfs. Deeeeeyum foo, you be stylin' wif dem Gandalfs, gnawmsayin? Foreal doe.

Climb more: Gandalfs
Hike more: Guide Tennies

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I want to try the scarpa vitamin on.

m.zappos.com/scarpa-vitamin…

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385
Prametheus · · Teton Valley · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

The Xplorers and Wildfire's were not on my radar but I will be sure to scope those out. Thank you all a bunch!!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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