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Elevation: 1,389 ft
GPS: 43.99512, -71.23819
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,491 total · 152/month
Shared By: Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

A pleasant sunny slab that is perfect for the beginning leader or for a more proficient climber who just wants to spend a relaxing day in the woods. The climbs at at Lost Ledge are almost all slabs and the cliff is never crowded. While it is about 20-25 min. and 400 vertical feet up into the woods; it is very easy to find with the proper directions.

All of the old 1/4" bolts have now (2016-19) been replaced with 3/8" bolts. (Why this fact didn't make it into the 2nd edition of the North Conway guidebook I have no idea, this guidebook still speaks (erroneously) of old 1/4 bolts on the crag.)

Getting There Suggest change

NOTE- The approach diagramed and described in both the 1st and 2nd editions of North Conway Rock Climbs is obsolete and hardly ever used. Most climbers who use it either get lost or report significant bushwhacking, especially at the final, steeper section. The description below is the route that has been used for at least 15 years.  Granted, if you are trying it for the first time, AND if it is late fall with freshly fallen leaves, there are places you will wish the yellow blazes were still on the trees ( they have long-since faded) but otherwise it is fairly easy to follow.

A couple of photos of the approach have been added.

Park at the gravel pull out for Ham Brook, which is on the south side of the Kancamangus highway 0.5-0.6 miles east of the turn-off for Albany Covered Bridge (about 1.5 Mi. East of Lower Falls), or, from the Conway area, 5 1/2 miles West of the "Kanc" traffic light on Rt 16.

The path starts near the east end of the parking area. It immediately climbs up for 30 +/- feet, then levels off (ignore any campsite or fire ring in this first 100-200 feet) walk through a pine-forest flat area, generally trending a bit left for 100 ft or so. The path crosses what looks like a dry stream bed at some rocks. Beyond this, look for birch branches on the ground "directing" you.

   The path enters forest and then goes under ( or around) a huge birch tree that fell in 2022-2023. A minute or two beyond this ( total of 3-4 min)  of walking ( NOT 15min, as some books say) you reach an open area, here the main path turns RIGHT down an embankment. [Approach Photo-1]  [Note, to this point the path should have been clear, as this spot is a popular camping spot. (Unfortunately "illegal" as it's too close to a stream for WMNF ) Cross Ham Brook here at a cairn. Shortly after the crossing the path turns LEFT and follows a tiny gully/stream for 100 -150 ft and just in front of another downed tree (2018; nearly rotted away in 2023), turns 90-degrees RIGHT and climbs directly up the steep hillside.  Follow the path and occasional cairns.

  Revised spring 2023….Some key turns are:

  1) When the first steep section ends (about 3 min. beyond the 90-degree right-hand turn) you'll pass over a LARGE  downed tree and then go between two trees [Approach photo-2], and drop down to the right into a shallow gully with a cairn.  

  Turn right-ish up the gulley for about 20 ft, step over another downed tree (2023) and in just 5-10 ft beyond the tree turn 90-degrees left and up. [Approach photo-3] DO NOT CONTINUE UP THE SHALLOW GULLY.  There is a 12+ inch diameter beech tree with and old yellow blaze where you turn left.THIS is where most people lose the path.

  2)  After about 100 yds you’ll step over/around an old dead tree and turn right then swing left to a flattish area. Then up a steep hillside for a bit ( site of a big 2018 blowdown, now nearly gone.) 

  3) Shortly thereafter, the path levels out for a short distance while traversing left, then bends around to the  right and passes next to a large boulder (with stone cairn) and then turns up right very steeply for 100 ft.  It then makes a left and follows an ancient "skidder" (logging) road. 

  4) Continue up along the old "skidder path" to a cairn, then drop down left and reach the far right of the Carpet Slab.  The base of the climb "Carpet Slabber" is the open area about 25 ft from the far right of the slab.

  Approach should take 20-25 minutes (500 vertical ft, about 1/2 to 3/4 mile) to the first slab (Carpet Slab). The Main slab is just to the left .

As stated above, approaching on the climber's path you first arrive at the Carpet Slab and the first climb is "Carpet Slabber" (Wow! weren't those guys back in the 1970's ingenious in route nomenclature!). Traversing the length of the Carpet Slab and walking less than a minute further you come to Main Slab and the climbs Rattle Can (black bolts) and Hallie Haley, then the obvious crack system of "Weak Nuts". Note the default order for listing climbs is L to Right; just click on R to Left to get the order by which you reach the climbs.

On the Main Slab all of the climbs from Nutt’n But Clean Laundry to Rattle Can are accessed from a wide, fairly level dirt base; for the "normal" starts to Washboard, Erosion Groove and Little Dab 'il Do Ya, it is necessary to drop down LEFT through the steep woods to the actual "toe" of the slab.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
Girls Prefer Batteries
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 6
Groov'in
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 9
Weak Nuts
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Hallie Haley
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Rattle Can
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
Rhumb Line
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Found Arch
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 6
Numb Nuts
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Lost Arch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Girls Prefer Batteries
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Groov'in
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Weak Nuts
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad
Hallie Haley
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rattle Can
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rhumb Line
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Found Arch
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Numb Nuts
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Lost Arch
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lost Ledge »

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