New and Red River Gorge advice
|
hey there, i will be passing through WV and KY in the near future, and i was hoping to stop at the New and the Red for a short period of time (maybe 1 or 2 days in each place). but i don't really know what's what around there, so i ask you MP'ers for some solid areas within the New and Red that have alot to offer for a 1 or 2 day stay. an area thats got some easy lines (dragging along someone that has never stepped on rock before) and some classics, shade is a plus. any suggestions are appreciated... thank you!! |
|
Easy lines at the New are hard to come by, especially in bunches. I would go to Orange Oswald Wall at Summerville Lake. 5.8-5.11+? There are other 10's around there as well, and it's beautiful. |
|
+1 for Summersville Lake at the New. The setting is simply beautiful. For other easy sport climbs that are actually in the Gorge, check out Sandstonia in the Bubba City area. There are numerous moderate trad climbs at the Endless Wall where you can get much better views of the Gorge. Although the sport climbing there is more suited for the advanced climber (5.11+). Never been to the Red, too much to do at the New :) |
|
da toz wrote:an area thats got some easy lines (dragging along someone that has never stepped on rock before) and some classics, shade is a plus.Without a doubt Orange Oswald is awesome, but it has just one easy bolt line (hippie dreams 5.7) and little shade. Bubba City, Sandstonia would be better IMO. More easies and shade. There will be a crowd at either spot. |
|
+1 for the Bruise Bros Wall at the Red. It can get crowded but it has the highest concentration of moderates (5.7 and up) in the area, and they are all in extremely close proximity to one another. |
|
Go to Summersville. Don't waste your time on the routes at Bubba City, it's a bad representation of the New. Take your friend down to Orange Oswald wall and you can warm up there. Narcissus is right there near the OO wall, it's an overhanging 12a with all fixed gear. Head back towards the car and stop at Satisfaction Guaranteed 11b, Under the Milky Way 11d, and then head over to the Coliseum for Reckless Abandon 12a, and a lot of harder lines. After that run and jump off of the diving board rock in the coliseum and swim climber's left to some easy DWS lines. Head over to Pies & Pints for pizza and beer, Secret Sandwich Society for sandwiches and beer, or DiOGiS for carnitas and margaritas. |
|
Here is some advice, don't go to either location. |
|
Hey Courthouse,,!!,,,no kicking us for the humid weather in summers down here! Advice for the Red...DO go, do stay at Miguel's if just for the wonderful social experience and best pizza you will ever taste in your life. Do go to Muir Valley for climbing,,,,they have added several new areas and routes for the 5.7 to 5.9 climber. New shaded trails, bathrooms down on the valley floor, an emergency radio and rescue system set up in place, with the best land owners you could ever have with private climbing property,,,and are often there to greet you in their parking lot early in the morning most weekends. |
|
Mostly everything has been covered, at the New definitely go to Orange Oswald. I believe there are also a couple good moderates spaced throughout Long Wall which is on the approach to Oswald. At the Red, definitely check out Bruise Brothers wall and on your way make a quick detour to the Land Before Time wall, which I do not believe is in the guidebooks but has a bunch of shorter moderates that will be good first routes for your friend. |
|
For the New: |
|
Yes, Miguel's pizza is kick ass pie! |
|
courthouse wrote:Yes, Miguel's pizza is kick ass pie!Sorry Courthouse, but it's not even close to Pies and Pints in Fayetteville. Some easier lines now in the shade (especially morning shade) on Summersville Lake at the Lost World. Not as classic as Orange Oswald, but not crowded either. |
|
Good idea, Zapp. Maybe we should add blind pizza tasting to the basketball game. I'll suggest that to Kenny. Regarding the hysteria treatment, you're on your own there. |
|
Orange Oswald wall can get really hot and there is little shade. |