Somebody's mixing metals again! Brandon.....checkout the American Safe Climbing Association website or Fixe Hardware for more information on mixing metals and galvanic corrosion. If you want to see some nice "ugly" corroded bolt photos check out Pt. Dume in CA at Los Angeles Basin on Mountain Project.
nbrown
·
Jul 19, 2014
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 7,724
Those definitely aren't the best bolts, but they're probably a lot better than you think too.
The top one looks like a 13 mm self-drive -- much better than the 8 mm versions. Those suckers are peppered all over the SE, especially on the granite domes where they were the easiest bolts to place by hand. However, most of them on popular lines have already been replaced.
The bottom bolts are probably wedge bolts. You can never know for sure, but these don't look all that corroded -- all things considered. I've replaced a lot of these and they are usually still surprisingly good.
Yes those are cold-shuts. Very popular in the 90's before those fancy ring hanger thingies were so readily available. Another trend back then was to put washers behind hangers/against the rock...
nbrown wrote:Those definitely aren't the best bolts, but they're probably a lot better than you think too. The top one looks like a 13 mm self-drive -- much better than the 8 mm versions. Those suckers are peppered all over the SE, especially on the granite domes where they were the easiest bolts to place by hand. However, most of them on popular lines have already been replaced. The bottom bolts are probably wedge bolts. You can never know for sure, but these don't look all that corroded -- all things considered. I've replaced a lot of these and they are usually still surprisingly good. Yes those are cold-shuts. Very popular in the 90's before those fancy ring hanger thingies were so readily available. Another trend back then was to put washers behind hangers/against the rock...
Yup, the old self drive death bolts. they came in all sorts of sizes 8mm,,10mm and 12/13mm about an in or so in the rock The shuts look like the "ukraine" shuts..even worse than you think
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