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Routes in Main Wall- Upper Tier
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Air Voyager TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gorgonzola TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Poseidon Adventure, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 11 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route 12 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Route 13 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Route 14 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 15 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Route 17 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 21 T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Route 3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Route 4 TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route 6 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Route 8 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Route 9 T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shake It Up S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Spill the Wine TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 970 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Mar 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
With fun climbing and good gear, Route 14 is a great "first 5.9" for the aspiring leader. Not as tough as many of the 5.9 leads at the Playground, for instance.
Begin with moderate moves up a low angle dihedral, aiming for the featured and steep headwall above. This airy headwall presents the crux, but is easier than it looks due to an abundance of positive pockets and edges. Continue up similar, but slightly easier, terrain to the top.
Begin with moderate moves up a low angle dihedral, aiming for the featured and steep headwall above. This airy headwall presents the crux, but is easier than it looks due to an abundance of positive pockets and edges. Continue up similar, but slightly easier, terrain to the top.
Location
Route #14 in the ![]()
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To find Route #14, it's perhaps easiest to locate Route #16 ("Gorgonzola"). Spot the shiny bolts on Gorgonzola, then the thin crack just to its left (the thin crack is Route #15). Route #14 climbs the first obvious line left of the thin crack, starting in a blocky dihedral and finishing on a well featured face. If you spot a low bolt on a slab, leading to a flaring fingercrack, this is for Route #13, and you've gone too far.
To find Route #14, it's perhaps easiest to locate Route #16 ("Gorgonzola"). Spot the shiny bolts on Gorgonzola, then the thin crack just to its left (the thin crack is Route #15). Route #14 climbs the first obvious line left of the thin crack, starting in a blocky dihedral and finishing on a well featured face. If you spot a low bolt on a slab, leading to a flaring fingercrack, this is for Route #13, and you've gone too far.
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