Mountain Project Logo

Little Bear

Original Post
Erin Mai · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

So I did Little Bear about 10 years ago without ropes/pro by myself. The 3 people I'm going up with in August would be much more comfortable and safe roped up. I've read different reports and some vary a bit.
Any ideas on if a solid good rope is permanently there or should you bring your own?? Also, I know there's supposed to be a permanent anchor there, but is it good? and what other pro can you/should you bring to get up to that point. I have a full trad rack, just need to narrow it down to what's helpful.
Any info would be great, thanks!!
Erin

J. Broussard · · CordryCorner · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 50

EDITED:
Let me start by saying:
The class 4 route to the top of Ellingwood Point from Como Lake is very excited and much safer.

I'm probably misunderstanding your question because it sounds like your planning on doing the decent gully, up and down. Please be aware that is a long history of people dying in that gully because of it's inherent hazards. It would be irresponsible to have anyone below you while you ascend or descent the gully.

But when I did Little Bear I didn't see any fixed ropes, but I avoided the standard decent gully. Soloing straight up it's face and across the ridge/spine to Blanca.

A couple of things to note if you do traverse the ridge:
-Don't take beginners or inexperienced people up there. They will not have fun.

-Route finding is a challenge when your not walking directly upon the spine. You'll spend a fair amount of time on one side of the spine or another and it's hard to tell which. Sometime you have to explore the options.

-Much more of a concern is the amount of time on the Ridge. You need to get off of there as soon as you can. You are very far from safely up there and even an morning breeze is going to make you soil your pants.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153

Lots of good information in this 14ers.com thread. Having only been in the "hourglass" on Little Bear once and up the NW Face four times, I enjoyed the experience up the NW face a great deal more. But I would not take any beginners up that route.
I wouldn't count on a rope in the hourglass although you're likely to find a beat up rope in situ.
The rock in the hourglass didn't appear to lend itself to many protection placements so I'd think taking a rope, you going up unprotected dragging the rope behind yourself and then bringing up your friends one at a time would work. But I'd think you'd be likely to dislodge loose rocks when tossing the rope back down after bringing each person up.
I would also consider helmets mandatory for the hourglass.

James Hicks · · Fruita, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 131

A rope on the hourglass is more of a hazard (for you and others on the route) than anything else. There is a ton of loose rock above and in the hourglass, so the last thing you want is a rope dragging across the stuff and knocking it down. The rock is not of a quality that I would bother sticking gear in anyway, so don't bother taking a rack.

Some people do rap from from the top of the gully I suppose, but I can't say i recommend it. And they often leave ropes as well. Don't trust these ropes though. First off, they won't help you at all on the way up. Do you want to pull on ropes that you were left there by who knows who? Second they could have been there for God knows how long. The hourglass is a snow route int he spring, so any ropes left over the winter are total crap by summertime since they have been buried for months. There is not a maintained anchor either, so don't go up there expecting anything at all. And don't trust what you might happen to find. The "anchor" is a slung block as best I remember. Which you can't see from the bottom. If you want to rap the gully be prepared to build your own rap anchor.

Honestly though, I feel if your friends can't do it without a rope you should find another route. The amount of time it would take to lead and belay up and then rap down, all while putting other climbers on route at risk of loose rock, as well as extending the amount of time you spend in the shooting gallery yourself seems like a bad idea. And if you do take a rope to rap the gully please take the rope back down with you.

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

If your friends are adventurous and in good shape you might look into the Southwest Ridge, which is supposedly the easiest route on Little Bear Peak. The reason few climb it is because the easiest access is from private land, but you can still get to the base by bushwhacking from the lower part of the Lake Como road. Google "Little Bear Southwest Ridge" for trip reports and more info.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Little Bear"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.