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Ice Gloves?

Original Post
Andrew Maver · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Howdy folks,

I'm looking for a solid pair of gloves for this winter. Right now I'm using the BD Punishers but even after a season of use they're still very stiff. Is it worth it to buy the expensive $100+ gloves? Do you guys have any recommendations?

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

(Disclaimer - this comes from a relative noob who only TR's WI3) I'm a fan of the Rab Baltoro gloves - picked up a pair when I was in Ouray in January, and I've been very happy with how well they breathe and how warm they are - they've become my go-to for all winter activities.
us.rab.uk.com/products/mens…

BrandonB Bagley · · Seattle, Wa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 35

Hey Andrew,
In my limited ice experience, and reading from sources like Will Gad, your choice of gloves is very dependent on your hands and most notably how you sweat. For some reason I was gifted with pretty active sweat glands while on rock or ice. Here are the problems I've run into and how I've dealt with it.
1- Sweat or moisture around your hands makes them colder faster and longer. This has caused me to have some pretty fun times with the screaming barfies.
2- Long days of climbing, its pretty unavoidable to get some moisture in there from sweat or snow which can cause the same problems.

I've gone with a 2 glove system that worked out super well. I have a thin inner glove (not any bulk, but moisture wicking), and a shell. The inner glove I can change during the day if I sweat a lot, and still maintain a lot of comfort without adding a lot of weight or expense. The outer gloves then tend to be a bit cheaper but still provide all the benefits of the really expensive gloves like the Arc Teryx ridiculousness.

I had a few pairs that I tried climbing with that were the all in 1 gloves and more expensive, but ended up spending less on the 2 part system and being more comfortable. Hope that helps.

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65


(I am also a noob but these are cheap and work well if you put some sno seal on there)

I also picked up a pair of MH Hydra EXT gloves that I haven't had a chance to use yet. The dexterity is killer though and they're totally waterproof (hand in bowl of water).
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

The best ice gloves on the market today are the Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II gloves. However, they're a bit pricey ($179.00). OR makes another set of gloves that are very similar but just a step down in the fancy bells and whistles department, called the Arête Gloves ($89.00) I've found that the differences in the two aren't significant enough to really justify the price differential.

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100

When I'm climbing I use a thin pair of waterproof/lightly insulated work gloves that I bought from Home Depot for $8. Everyone asks if they're the Petzl gloves (not sure which ones they were referring to) but they have held up the best. When belaying I use my heavier and warmer gloves.

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:The best ice gloves on the market today are the Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II gloves. However, they're a bit pricey ($179.00). OR makes another set of gloves that are very similar but just a step down in the fancy bells and whistles department, called the Arête Gloves ($89.00) I've found that the differences in the two aren't significant enough to really justify the price differential.
The Alpine Alibi II are amazing technologically and fill a specific function (alpine climbing in bad, but not super cold, weather) very well. That said, I prefer my OR Lodestars ($90) over the Alibi 90‰ of the time (Northern Rockies waterfall ice). They are more dexterous and breathable and keep my hands happy most of the time. Basically, they just make my hands feel real "climby".

I think I wore over a dozen pairs of gloves extensively last year. I'm starting to learn what I prefer in different conditions, and most importantly, my partners don't necessarily agree. Maybe try to climb with a glove-whore with the same size hands as you who's willing to share. Sadly, just demoing for a day won't tell you much. Every day and climb presents a new set of challenging conditions for your glove to overcome. I'm not going to do hard mixed climbing in the Alpine Alibi, but I'm also not going up Denali with Nike golf gloves.
Alton Richardson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 170

Andrew, I like to have a few pairs when climbing ice but these are the main staples that I have found to be SUPER legit.

For ultra warm, the Rab Guide Gloves are unbeatable. Fully waterprof, COZY as hell and really burly. us.rab.uk.com/products/mens…

For when the going gets tough (technical) and or you want something thinner or its not arctic out there, then the Rab Alpine glove is the bee's knees. us.rab.uk.com/products/mens…

I like to climb in the Alpine glove then wear the guide glove while not climbing but I have did most of my climbing in the guide glove this last winter and never had a complaint.

My gumby ice climber 2 cents.

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Alton R. wrote:Andrew, I like to have a few pairs when climbing ice but these are the main staples that I have found to be SUPER legit. For ultra warm, the Rab Guide Gloves are unbeatable. Fully waterprof, COZY as hell and really burly. us.rab.uk.com/products/mens…
Hell yes on these. I'm just sad that you reminded me that mine are almost done for (after a crazy amount of abuse).
Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Very worth the 100 dollar glove...when you are pumped and losing grip its the last interface you have with the tool or when you are staving off the screaming barfies...

My 0.02, I climb in the OR Alibi I for mixed, low profile, tacky leather, comfortable and a high amount of dexterity. For cold, No Mas, I dont use them in anything below 28F.

I like the OR Warrant glove for colder days, its padded, warm, good dexterity given the size, thinsulate, and is quite grippy.

-Z

Andrew Maver · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the awesome replies, folks! Love all the input! It's looking like OR really has the market nailed down on high-performance gloves. I really like the look Rab Guide and the OR Alibi II gloves!

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

Yes. It is worthwhile having more dexterous gloves, especially if you want to get into mixed climbing. I always bring two pairs, so I can change out wet gloves. Others worth checking out...

Gloves that fit me (Beefy Hands):
- Black Diamond Arc
- Arc'Teryx MX
- Mountain Hardwear ? (forget the name, but it is a great uninsulated soft shell glove)

Gloves that do not fit me (Long, Slender Fingers)
- OR Alibi
- OR Warrant

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Karl, I noticed the same thing about the fit of OR gloves. Haha..

Andrew, Check out the EMS work gloves. They're inexpensive and have a great fit for ice climbing. I have pair of Rab Baltro gloves too. They're 50 bucks and fit well. The only drawback is when the gloves get wet... forget about it.

I use BD Punishers when needed. If those fit well get another pair. Those are excellent colder weather gloves

Andrew Maver · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

I'll check out those gloves, Kirby, thanks for the input!

mark55401 · · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 355

unless it's brutally cold, I find that thinner is best. I use some ridiculously thin OR soft shell gloves -- no liners -- down to about 15 Fahrenheit.

The real trick is not to get your gloves wet.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

As pricy as they are, I had great success with the OR Warrant Gloves this season. They took a beating, kept my hands pretty warm, never got soaked through and had to be put away, and climbed fairly well. These were definitely my go to cold weather day glove. I will admit I got they at a pretty good price, so I am not sure if I would buy them again at the full price, however I did like them a lot.

My system was:

OR PL100 liners always kept on
OR Warrant Gloves to climb in
OR Alti mits to belay and keep warm in

On warmer days the Warrant gloves were far to thick and a pair or kinco's were perfect. I've also seen the Alibi II gloves used on warmer days with good success as well.

TravisSC · · New York, NY · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

I'll revive this thread and add my 2c. In my opinion gloves are like boots - they're great if they fit but worthless if they don't. I'm currently rotating through the MH Typhon and Hydra Pro gloves with the OR Highcamp 3-Finger Mitts for extra cold weather. I previously had the OR Arete and loved them - unfortunately they started splitting a seam and I sent them back to OR for warranty repairs (great service by the way). I was dissapointed to find that they'd changed the fit in the fingers since the pair I owned so that's how I stumbled on to the MH range. I've also tried the OR Stormtracker and OR Vert gloves for warmer weather - or paired with the PL Base Gloves as a liner. If the MH Hydra Pro fit you though I can't think of a more versitile pair that's both warm and gives good dexterity.

Jfaub · · Ottawa, On · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 795

Maybe my Canadian hands are more acclimatized to the cold and I don't feel I need super big / super warm / expensive gloves when climbing ice, so I use the BD glissade. I also use thin OR liner gloves underneath if it gets rediculously cold.

Freddy.Mondale Mondale · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 55

+1 for alibi 2's. I wear them with a thin liner and then switch to a warmer glove for belays. I really like the all leather flylow gloves and at $40 per pair, theyre cheap enough to get a few pairs of. The good ones are hard to find online but larry's bootfitting in boudler carries them

Angela Limbach · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

To throw another suggestion out there, I use ice fishing gloves. As a smaller woman with notoriously cold hands, Frabill gauntlets are great and almost too warm for all the not-climbing parts of ice climbing. They're totally waterproof too since, you know, the whole ice-fishing picking cold wet fishies out of frozen water type stuff. I also have more dexterous ones for the actual climbing part of things.

brow8903 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

I've grown to liking a winter bicycling glove for my ice glove Gore bike ware makes solid winter cycling gloves that are very dexterous and warm( so long as you have a thick pair for the belay).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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