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Climbing in SLC without a car?

Original Post
Paul Knox · · Los Angeles · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1

Hi MP, I'm thinking of relocating to Salt Lake City to be closer to good rock climbing. I enjoy bike commuting, and would love to live in a city where I don't need to own a car. Are there climbing opportunities near SLC that are accessible by bike, or public transportation, or both? Is it a pipe dream to be carless and climbing outdoors a couple times a week?

Just for background, I mostly sport climb and boulder a bit. I am open to anything else Utah has to offer though.

If anyone can suggest another city that fits the bill, I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

You could get to some cragging and bouldering via a combination of transit and bike or just bike, but not a lot unless you are willing to power up the canyons on a bicycle before climbing. Seems you could probably hook up with a partner or two who had cars and get yourself out and after it fairly easily though.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

I live in SLC w/no car. It is do-able, but sometimes I don't get to climb when I want to. There is a bus that can take you to the mouth of Little Cottonwood canyon from which you can walk to popular areas such as mexican crack, crescent crack buttress, and a boulder field. I don't really use public transit to climb though since it takes so long as getting to this bus would involve a couple of transfers and it doesn't run that often. I think it goes more in the winter so that folks can access the ski areas.

So many SLC'ers have cars that I just find partners willing to drive and give them lots of gas money/beer.

If you mostly sport climb you will probably like american fork canyon more than the wasatch areas that are public transit accessible.

During winter/when it rains the Front (bouldering gym, soon to have a lead wall?) and the new Momentum in millcreek (world class gym) are easily accessible by bike from most anywhere in SLC proper.

shakey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 50

you are in luck, there is a crag called 'The Momentum' that is easily accessible with bike or public transit. Steeper, more sustained, less chossy and more concentrated than any crag that requires driving

shakey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 50

and on a more serious note, I too lived in slc for 5 years without a car. It was doable and I got to climb and ski a good amount but I will say having a car around here is way better especially if you are into afterwork mountain running/scrambling or want to dawn patrol in winter. I don't use my car at all for commuting and mostly bike to the gyms but for getting to enjoy the mountains on your own terms a car is pretty awesome.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Speaking of...I am trying to get out for the pioneer day weekend (gonna take thurs and fri off from work) and I wanna get out!

Areas I'd be down to go to for a 4 day weekend:

Sporting:
Wild Iris,
Tensleep,
Maple,
Uintas,

Traditional:
Elephant's perch,
Winds,

Wherever the good temps are.

No car but I got a double rack, 70m rope, lots of stoke, camping gear. I'll bring gas money, beer, etc. I lead 5.10- on trad (have done mexican, goodro's wall, black & white john & mary) and 5.11 sport (am working some 12- climbs in BCC and AF). PM me if you want to get out!!

edit: oh yeah and I've done tons of multipitch and got my systems/rope management pretty much dialed

Paul Knox · · Los Angeles · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1

Thanks for the info. Glad to know its possible to get some climbing done without driving in SLC! Currently, I live in a not very bike friendly city with no rocks! I'm hoping to remedy that situation soon.

Eric! I had to look up pioneers day on wikipedia! Now I know. I don't think I'll be able to make it to SLC this month, but hopefully I'll stop by to check it out soon. Perhaps I can PM you then? I'm always down to climb!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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