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Futuras, hype or not?

Original Post
K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

I've read about people saying the Futuras are really well performing shoes. However when I look at the IFSC bouldering world cup, it's mostly Sportiva Solutions and Mad Rock Shark 2.0 from what I can tell. Adam Ondra did wear Speedsters at Innsbruck which was cool. I already have Sportiva Solutions, 5.10 Anasazi VCS, and Anasazi Mocs. I was originally hoping to get a shoe that's almost as precise as the Solutions but less painful (the Solutions are tight and make my toes sore for a day or so) for routes that are a little easier... Outdoors. But not sacrificing much performance. Some people have indicated the no edge allows the shoe to be pretty comfortable for the amount of downturn, and I was also thinking about sizing it the same as the Solution even though most people say go .5 down from the Solution (for added comfort).

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

No comment on the Futuras, but would recommend trying on some of scarpa's new shoes. I love sportiva shoes, but recently I have been using the scarpa instinct vs and find it to be comfortable for an aggressive shoe, I also have seen lots of positive reviews on the scarpa boostic as well.

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106

I've tried on the Futuras in the store, and found them to be incredibly comfortable. I kept sizing down, just because I could.

I've never done any climbing in them, but my friends who own them have all said they love them. Multiple people have also told me that they wear out really fast.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

John Wilder, that's a good idea, and I had the same thought. I can't decide whether the Futura would maybe add a little more versatility to my shoe selection, or if Solution is just the superior shoe and I should stick with it. I also wonder whether the Solution can truly be comfortable even when bigger or not... Anyone have experience with the solution sized down 2 euro sizes from your street shoe size?

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Pontoon wrote:Mad Rock Shark 2.0 from what I can tell.
With the exception of Jan Hoier (the ridiculously strong German dude w/ pretty poor foot work), the black/orange shoes you are seeing is Scarpa Instinct VS.

But I'm not sure why that's relevant. You are only wearing your shoes for a few minutes at a time, and edging is only a part (and some times not even an important part) of what makes it a good bouldering shoe.
shotwell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0
reboot wrote: With the exception of Jan Hoier (the ridiculously strong German dude w/ pretty poor foot work), the black/orange shoes you are seeing is Scarpa Instinct VS. But I'm not sure why that's relevant. You are only wearing your shoes for a few minutes at a time, and edging is only a part (and some times not even an important part) of what makes it a good bouldering shoe.
GuiGui Mondet, Julianne Wurm, and others all wear the Shark.
Callum Douglass · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2013 · Points: 233
reboot wrote: With the exception of Jan Hoier (the ridiculously strong German dude w/ pretty poor foot work), the black/orange shoes you are seeing is Scarpa Instinct VS. ...
Or La Sportiva Pythons. They are fairly common on the World Cup Tour.
Fredwardo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

I climb nearly everything in Solutions, including 15p trad routes like the East Face of Mt Babel. I find them perfectly comfy in one single size, and awful in many others. I would suggest going to a store and trying on multiple sizes.
The only places I don't use them are Indian Creek, and Eldorado Canyon, as they don't torque or smear as well as some alternatives.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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