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K R
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Jul 5, 2014
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CA
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 50
I've read about people saying the Futuras are really well performing shoes. However when I look at the IFSC bouldering world cup, it's mostly Sportiva Solutions and Mad Rock Shark 2.0 from what I can tell. Adam Ondra did wear Speedsters at Innsbruck which was cool. I already have Sportiva Solutions, 5.10 Anasazi VCS, and Anasazi Mocs. I was originally hoping to get a shoe that's almost as precise as the Solutions but less painful (the Solutions are tight and make my toes sore for a day or so) for routes that are a little easier... Outdoors. But not sacrificing much performance. Some people have indicated the no edge allows the shoe to be pretty comfortable for the amount of downturn, and I was also thinking about sizing it the same as the Solution even though most people say go .5 down from the Solution (for added comfort).
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Highlander
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Jul 5, 2014
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 256
No comment on the Futuras, but would recommend trying on some of scarpa's new shoes. I love sportiva shoes, but recently I have been using the scarpa instinct vs and find it to be comfortable for an aggressive shoe, I also have seen lots of positive reviews on the scarpa boostic as well.
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Finn The Human
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Jul 5, 2014
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The Land of Ooo
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 106
I've tried on the Futuras in the store, and found them to be incredibly comfortable. I kept sizing down, just because I could. I've never done any climbing in them, but my friends who own them have all said they love them. Multiple people have also told me that they wear out really fast.
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K R
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Jul 6, 2014
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CA
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 50
John Wilder, that's a good idea, and I had the same thought. I can't decide whether the Futura would maybe add a little more versatility to my shoe selection, or if Solution is just the superior shoe and I should stick with it. I also wonder whether the Solution can truly be comfortable even when bigger or not... Anyone have experience with the solution sized down 2 euro sizes from your street shoe size?
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reboot
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Jul 6, 2014
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.
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 125
Pontoon wrote:Mad Rock Shark 2.0 from what I can tell. With the exception of Jan Hoier (the ridiculously strong German dude w/ pretty poor foot work), the black/orange shoes you are seeing is Scarpa Instinct VS. But I'm not sure why that's relevant. You are only wearing your shoes for a few minutes at a time, and edging is only a part (and some times not even an important part) of what makes it a good bouldering shoe.
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shotwell
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Jul 6, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 0
reboot wrote: With the exception of Jan Hoier (the ridiculously strong German dude w/ pretty poor foot work), the black/orange shoes you are seeing is Scarpa Instinct VS. But I'm not sure why that's relevant. You are only wearing your shoes for a few minutes at a time, and edging is only a part (and some times not even an important part) of what makes it a good bouldering shoe. GuiGui Mondet, Julianne Wurm, and others all wear the Shark.
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Callum Douglass
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Jul 7, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 233
reboot wrote: With the exception of Jan Hoier (the ridiculously strong German dude w/ pretty poor foot work), the black/orange shoes you are seeing is Scarpa Instinct VS. ... Or La Sportiva Pythons. They are fairly common on the World Cup Tour.
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Fredwardo
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Jul 7, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 0
I climb nearly everything in Solutions, including 15p trad routes like the East Face of Mt Babel. I find them perfectly comfy in one single size, and awful in many others. I would suggest going to a store and trying on multiple sizes. The only places I don't use them are Indian Creek, and Eldorado Canyon, as they don't torque or smear as well as some alternatives.
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