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Fear of touching Aerie
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 18
votes
Routes in Moss Cliff
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A Touch of Class T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Creation Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Creation of the World T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Falconer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fear of touching Aerie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hard Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mistah Luthah T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mossiah, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spirit of Adventure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Linkup of several existing climbs, no first ascent listed |
| Page Views: | 3,236 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | AJV on Sep 10, 2013 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Pitch 1 - Same as pitch 1 of Touch of class. This pitch involves some boldish laybacking to start your day. As always, beware the "+". Gear belay.
Pitch 2 - Climb up from the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet and then traverse left to the 5.9 Aerie crack and up to the tree island ledge. Belay off slings on a birch tree.
Pitch 3 - The money pitch. Climb the left-facing corner directly above the belay. It eventually goes overhanging and the crack disappears, but stemming and smearing will let you escape right. It's not over yet! Traverse right across thin vertical cracks on slabby terrain to reach the Touch of Class left-facing corner. Keep some small gear - 0.2 and lower. RPs are useful too. Finish at a ledge with a rare ADK bolted belay.
Pitch 4 - Climb straight up the nice finger cracks. The crux is low on this pitch. Eventually reach a dirty ledge you can traverse left on for about 25 feet to another bolted belay.
Pitch 2 - Climb up from the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet and then traverse left to the 5.9 Aerie crack and up to the tree island ledge. Belay off slings on a birch tree.
Pitch 3 - The money pitch. Climb the left-facing corner directly above the belay. It eventually goes overhanging and the crack disappears, but stemming and smearing will let you escape right. It's not over yet! Traverse right across thin vertical cracks on slabby terrain to reach the Touch of Class left-facing corner. Keep some small gear - 0.2 and lower. RPs are useful too. Finish at a ledge with a rare ADK bolted belay.
Pitch 4 - Climb straight up the nice finger cracks. The crux is low on this pitch. Eventually reach a dirty ledge you can traverse left on for about 25 feet to another bolted belay.
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