Sea cliff climbing

Hi all,

Coming over from the UK in the next couple of months, and was wondering if anyone could recommend any sea cliffs with good climbing? Appreciate the US is one big place but I'm trying to fit as much climbing in as I can, and will tailor itinerary to suit.

Thanks!

I'm sure there's more, but the only one that comes to mind is Acadia National Park in Maine.

mountainproject.com/v/otter…

Nice one thanks - looks like a good day out!

Sort of... mountainproject.com/v/patri…

Curious as to why you would go from the UK (home of sea cliff climbing) to the US (not home of sea cliff climbing) and want to do sea cliff climbing? I'd strongly suggest that you skip the sea cliffs and find the hundreds of utterly amazing non-seacliff crags.

There is a lot of stuff along the Northern California coastline that remains pretty low-key and under the radar.....if you are looking for an adventure.

David Morgantini wrote:Curious as to why you would go from the UK (home of sea cliff climbing) to the US (not home of sea cliff climbing) and want to do sea cliff climbing? I'd strongly suggest that you skip the sea cliffs and find the hundreds of utterly amazing non-seacliff crags.

^ +1
Climb the classics in the states for what they are and they're not on the sea cliffs. That said, the great lakes are supposed to have some nice stuff. Not sure they really qualify as sea cliffs but do have water access.

You going to head to Mexico next for some skiing? Maybe hit Somalia for some surfing?

Only looking for advice - some good and some not. Thanks anyway -as I said, it was to help plan a trip. Acting on the good advice I won't bother looking for sea cliffs.

Thanks again.

Lots of folks on this site are willing to give useful information if you need it. Answering the following questions may help you get constructive advice as opposed to sarcastic responses...

-Where in the US will you be and for how long?
-Are you in country for work or pleasure?
-Are you travelling solo or partnered up already?
-What kind of climbing are you wanting to do? Sport, trad, walls, bouldering,etc?

Thanks for the tip. I'm coming over for pleasure with my wife and teenage kids. I mostly trad climb, leading VS (5.8?), second 5.10. Will mostly be climbing with my son, so looking for accessible routes like for instance Seneca Rocks. Don't really have fixed plans yet, but mainly East Coast, as far down as South Carolina, maybe Georgia too. As I said, flexible!

Check out Red Rocks, J Tree, Bishop, Yosemite any of those have world class boulder/sport/trad climbing!

David Morgantini wrote:Curious as to why you would go from the UK (home of sea cliff climbing) to the US (not home of sea cliff climbing) and want to do sea cliff climbing? I'd strongly suggest that you skip the sea cliffs and find the hundreds of utterly amazing non-seacliff crags.

This post strongly sums up my opinion.

David Morgantini wrote:Curious as to why you would go from the UK (home of sea cliff climbing) to the US (not home of sea cliff climbing) and want to do sea cliff climbing? I'd strongly suggest that you skip the sea cliffs and find the hundreds of utterly amazing non-seacliff crags.

Thanks for the advice. I was posing the question because I enjoy sea cliff climbing. Coming from the UK as I do, I have climbed plenty of these. As I am coming to the US, I was hoping I might be able to experience something that I really enjoy, but in a totally different area. That's why I posted on here, to harness all your experience. As it turns out, it appears your coast is somewhat devoid of cliffs. Hope that solves your curiosity!

Sea cliffs are the best!!

East Coast: Acadia
Inland Sea: North Shore of Lake Superior
West Coast: Trinidad Head, Patrick's Point, Promontory, Footsteps Rocks...

Nothing here compares to what you have there . . .

whitewalls wrote:Hi all, Coming over from the UK in the next couple of months, and was wondering if anyone could recommend any sea cliffs with good climbing? Appreciate the US is one big place but I'm trying to fit as much climbing in as I can, and will tailor itinerary to suit. Thanks!

If you are planning to stay back east and you can visit in september or october, you will have much nicer weather. The east coast, especially the southeast can be brutally humid and hot. The autumn colors are very pretty and worth enjoying if possible.

At the HVS (5.8) level you might want to look into
the Adirondaks in upstate NY, many different crags, including Roger's Rock, which rises from a lake. Rent a canoe and paddle to it. There also used to be a crag directly on Lake Champlain, not a destination by any means, but pleasant if you are in the area. I think access is an issue so you would need to inquire locally.
Cathedral Cliff, Whitehorse and Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire. Whitehorse has several slab climbs in your range, Cathedral a few steeper but mostly harder. Cannon is a bigger cliff but I have fond memories of Lakeview, a long moderate, but not exactly a classic!
The Gunks- outside NYC, countless wonderful moderate routes. New Paltz used to be a nice small college town too, with decent restaurants.
I don't really know the crags farther south very well. Seneca seems like a good choice with multiple routes in your range. It's a striking fin of rock. Stiff grades.
The New River Gorge and the Red River Gorge are great areas, but I can't comment on whether the routes are in the range you prefer.
West Virgina has excellent rafting.
West Virgina and Kentucky both have superb caving if you are into that sort of thing. Just be aware of White Nose Syndrome issues.
If you pass through DC, the Smithsonian is a cool place to visit.

A really big thanks for the replies and messages. I have the beginnings of a plan - all I've got to do now is get it passed by she who must be obeyed (it's supposed to be her holiday after all!)

Thanks again and happy climbing.

I highly recommend the Gunks. For an english trady like you, in the grades you want to climb, I can't think of a better place in the eastern US (doesn't mean there aren't better places, just that I don't know them). As a tip, go during the week and take the boss sightseeing in NYC on the weekend. Then you get the best of both worlds she gets to see the sights of an awesome city (I think - I just stayed in the Gunks) and you get to climb when there are fewer people there so no queues on the classic routes. :-)

David Morgantini wrote:I highly recommend the Gunks. For an english trady like you, in the grades you want to climb, I can't think of a better place in the eastern US (doesn't mean there aren't better places, just that I don't know them). As a tip, go during the week and take the boss sightseeing in NYC on the weekend. Then you get the best of both worlds she gets to see the sights of an awesome city (I think - I just stayed in the Gunks) and you get to climb when there are fewer people there so no queues on the classic routes. :-)

Sounds like a win/win - cheers!

Austin Baird wrote:You going to head to Mexico next for some skiing? Maybe hit Somalia for some surfing?

http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Popocatepetl

surf-forecast.com/breaks/Pi…

Holiday sorted for this year, but maybe next, who knows? Happy July 4th...