Can shoes have an impact?

Scarpa Helix's. I wanted something I could wear all day.

Should have got a pair that would get you up this.

Of all the popular climbing shoes out there, Mythos are by far the lowest-performance model for edging. Maybe the most comfortable model out there, but just not designed for performance. People have been making do with what they've got for a long time, and you should make sure you're not just looking for excuses, but there's no harm in getting a more performance-oriented pair of shoes--it's not like you have to pay more money for them than you do for Mythos. Just don't get sucked into buying them too small--you won't be able to benefit from a really tight size until you get more experience, and at this point you won't have the sensitivity to be able to tell when a tighter fit yields a real performance benefit and what is just extra pain from a too-small shoe that doesn't fit you well.

I didn't read any of the above. In response to the OP's question: No. - vimeo.com/66473915
Skip to 2:10 in the video. ;-) Though I'm joking, he's currently number one in the WC: ifsc-climbing.org/index.php…

Phil Esra wrote:Of all the popular climbing shoes out there, Mythos are by far the lowest-performance model for edging. Maybe the most comfortable model out there, but just not designed for performance.

alex huber leading the VERY runnout edging pitch on Bavarian Direct, 5.13b baffin island in his purple "barney the dino" mythos

youtube.com/watch?v=DW6vRHu…

;)

Further proof of my point:

stone love doesn't exactly look like an edging testpiece....

shoes don't matter when you campus everything. pretty soon you will realize that the harder routes it is impossible to stay on with your feet anyways. this is why most of us climb in flip flops

That's great, but the fact that somebody in the 99.9999th percentile of climbing ability can climb hard stuff in Mythos is not that relevant to how better shoes can affect the performance of people that are not so gifted.

I also see Jan Hojer using Solutions in the comps, not Mythos.

Shawn Heath wrote:Though I'm joking, he's currently number one in the WC: ifsc-climbing.org/index.php…

On the strength that he participated all the WC bouldering events so far, whereas Dimitri (and some of the lower ranked competitors) has not. He certainly hasn't bested Dimitri overall in the events they've both participated. Don't get me wrong, Jan is an absolute beast of a climber, probably the strongest in the world, but his weaknesses (foot work amongst them) are almost comically horrible for a top ranked comp boulderer.

5.samadhi wrote:shoes don't matter when you campus everything. pretty soon you will realize that the harder routes it is impossible to stay on with your feet anyways. this is why most of us climb in flip flops

Depends on the route but there is some truth to this.

If you're on some thin edging climb on a vertical / less than vertical wall, first of all take a step back and think about what you're doing with your life. Then maybe think about getting some shoes that actually edge.

If you're climbing the steeps (e.g. Pine Creek) the edging doesn't matter so much as the heel cup and toe-hooking rubber (lots of mandatory toe hooks at Pine Creek).

Ryan Watts wrote: Depends on the route but there is some truth to this. If you're on some thin edging climb on a vertical / less than vertical wall, first of all take a step back and think about what you're doing with your life. Then maybe think about getting some shoes that actually edge. If you're climbing the steeps (e.g. Pine Creek) the edging doesn't matter so much as the heel cup and toe-hooking rubber (lots of mandatory toe hooks at Pine Creek).

Pine Creek Canyon, near Bishop? That's steep? What wall? I can't tell whether you're being serious. I ask because I've only been sport climbing "seriously" for 1.5ish yrs after many years of trad in places like Josh and Tuolumne, and I've had to readjust my definition of what "steep" means. I just went to Pine Creek for the first time a few weeks ago, and climbed 11s and 12s on Mustache and Ministry. I'd have called the area an edging paradise, and low-angle by sporto standards. Right? Are we just talking about different grades?

Regarding the main thread--clearly we have proven that the Mythos is by far the best shoe out there for sending hard, should one choose to hinder one's climbing by actually wearing shoes. Case closed. What do we talk about now?

Christian wrote:That's great, but the fact that somebody in the 99.9999th percentile of climbing ability can climb hard stuff in Mythos is not that relevant to how better shoes can affect the performance of people that are not so gifted. I also see Jan Hojer using Solutions in the comps, not Mythos.

Nope. Jan wears Mad Rock Sharks.

Ryan Watts wrote: Depends on the route but there is some truth to this. If you're on some thin edging climb on a vertical / less than vertical wall, first of all take a step back and think about what you're doing with your life. Then maybe think about getting some shoes that actually edge. If you're climbing the steeps (e.g. Pine Creek) the edging doesn't matter so much as the heel cup and toe-hooking rubber (lots of mandatory toe hooks at Pine Creek).

yeah obviously a place like Pine Creek near Bishop you don't really need shoes for. I find I on site and red point harder there barefoot because I can use my toes toe hooking and bat hanging

Eliot, I thought you wanted something better for edging... but I understand the comfort thing. I hope they work out for you.

Shawn, that video is crazy. 1-9?! Incredible.

pine creek... steep? say what??

Jon Zucco wrote:Eliot, I thought you wanted something better for edging... but I understand the comfort thing. I hope they work out for you. Shawn, that video is crazy. 1-9?! Incredible.

I'm probably still ignorant about shoes as a whole, but they are sooooooooo much better than before. Things I thought were smooth rock are now awesome footholds. So I feel like its a great edging shoe. And I've had them about 4 weeks now, and they have held the edge.

I think it is silly to not encourage new climbers to use "elite" shoes because they are not an "elite" level.Proper shoes that not only fit your foot but the style of climbing you are looking to excel at will do worlds for your climbing. Furthermore, I believe proper shoes will help you work on footwork, body awareness, and technique, all of which will improve your climbing. MOST climbers I see have terrible footwork, so why have bad habits caused by sloppy shoes ingrained early? I am certainly not saying run out and buy the most expensive pair of shoes out there, but finding the right shoe for YOU will help.

I also don't know why anyone gives a shit about what people wore to climb 40 years ago. They made the best with what they had at the time, and we should as well. Are you going to climb on hemp ropes now too because "hell if it was good enough then, it is good enough now?" or not use your seatbelt because "well cars 60 years ago didn't have them!" That is a silly argument.

However, OP, to really improve your climbing, you need to just get a lot more mileage. 5.11 in the gym is usually like 5.7...maybe 5.8 outdoors. I see you are in Boulder, as am I, and I have never ever ever climbed a 5.11 in any gym in Boulder that was anywhere CLOSE to 5.11 outside. And no, I am far from being so strong I don't know what 5.11 feels like(I wish...hah)

Good Luck and Have Fun!

Kelly P wrote: 5.11 in the gym is usually like 5.7...maybe 5.8 outdoors. I see you are in Boulder, as am I, and I have never ever ever climbed a 5.11 in any gym in Boulder that was anywhere CLOSE to 5.11 outside. And no, I am far from being so strong I don't know what 5.11 feels like(I wish...hah) Good Luck and Have Fun!

I totally know this. I don't mean to make a direct comparison to gym vs outdoor grading. But, I do mention it in reference to the hold sizes. There is a big difference between 5.7 holds and 5.11 holds in the gym. My general guide is: a 5.11 in a gym is a 5.10 sport climb, and a 5.10 sport climb is a 5.9 trad climb.