Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Main Tier
|
Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Artistic Arete S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Balti Porter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Broach, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fire in the Hole T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
First Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Link, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Nutrasweet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Protectorate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Ship of Fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Special Ops S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Tiny Dancer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Welcome to Watauga T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Doug Reed - 1985 |
| Page Views: | 6,678 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Stayner on May 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is one of the most badass lines in the Boone region, if not the state. An overhanging, angling pumpfest, the line is also surprisingly doable for the grade. Get on it and don't let go! The crux of this amazing line might be locking off to peer into the horizontal for gear.
P1-Start as for Linn Cove Lullaby, but instead of heading left for the underclings and traverses, stay straight on easy terrain, heading for a large right-facing corner. Set the belay with medium stoppers at an absolutely perfect, lay-down ledge. 5.6/7, 80'.
P2-Continue up the broad corner, mantling onto a ledge 10 or 15' above the belay ledge beneath a steep, clean bulge. Carefully stand up and reach blindly over the lip--you'll find what you're looking for! Bust a couple of bouldery moves up over this roof, be careful with the flexing jug, get some pro, and GO! Follow the gorgeous horizontal out right for 30 or so feet to an exciting move pulling around the corner. Relax--you're now on an easy slab. Set a belay near the top of the crag. 5.11+, 60'.
NOTE: Many do this route in one pitch.
No description I write will do this route justice. If you're up to the grade, it's simply a must-do.
P1-Start as for Linn Cove Lullaby, but instead of heading left for the underclings and traverses, stay straight on easy terrain, heading for a large right-facing corner. Set the belay with medium stoppers at an absolutely perfect, lay-down ledge. 5.6/7, 80'.
P2-Continue up the broad corner, mantling onto a ledge 10 or 15' above the belay ledge beneath a steep, clean bulge. Carefully stand up and reach blindly over the lip--you'll find what you're looking for! Bust a couple of bouldery moves up over this roof, be careful with the flexing jug, get some pro, and GO! Follow the gorgeous horizontal out right for 30 or so feet to an exciting move pulling around the corner. Relax--you're now on an easy slab. Set a belay near the top of the crag. 5.11+, 60'.
NOTE: Many do this route in one pitch.
No description I write will do this route justice. If you're up to the grade, it's simply a must-do.
Protection
A good variety of gear. Gear through the crux is blue TCU-sized through .75 camalot, with a flaring #2 camalot if you want it. Keep an eye open for keyholed nut placements. Bring a #3 camalot and maybe save some finger-sized cams for the belay. There is a set of newer, hangerless bolt studs hanging out in the vicinity of the belay.
8 Comments