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curvature on shoes

Original Post
Daniel McClellan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

I've been climbing for about 6-8 months now. the shoes I've been using have been very comfortable, but with little (if any) asymmetric curvature. I'm going to be getting a new pair and I'm wondering how aggressive my new shoes should be as I work into a more intermediate/advanced intermediate level?

Randall Chapman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,582

My opinion on the subject is it all depends on the climbing you are currently doing. If you are sport climbing in the 5.10-5.11 range you should look for a flat but pointed shoe (Galileo, Pontas, Katana, Force) or possibly a slightly down turned (Arrow head, Gashido, Miura, Instinct). If you are in the 5.12 range and up look for something more aggressive (Blackwing, Shaman, Solution, Boostic). Just make sure it fits and is not painful unless you are climbing 5.13. You will blow through this pair of shoes before you make too many grade jumps so buy it for what you are climbing now not what you think you'll be climbing in the next few months. Hope this helps, feel free to ask me questions.

Jordan D · · Glenville, New York · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I started out with Tarantulas, and at the beginning of this year switched to a pair of miura laces, I've been very happy with my choice.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Shoe features (downturns, pointed toes, stiff lasts, flexibility, etc) are geared towards different styles of climbing and rock, not the degree of difficulty. The question to ask is what types of climbing are you looking to do, and on what type of surface?

Some generalizations about shoes: downturns are typically well-suited to steep or overhung climbing, pointed toes are great for pocketed rock or thinner cracks, stiff shoes for precise edging on vert/near-vert faces, and flexible/comfortable shoes are well suited to cracks, friction slabs, long routes, etc. If you're climbing mostly in the gym, a relatively flat-lasted shoe with good edges and velcro enclosures is great as an all-around solution (katanas, bandit vs, rogues).

Austin Eddy · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 11

Curvature doesn't matter as much as people make it out to. I prefer my 5.10 anasazis over my shamans for most outdoor climbing, including huge roofs.

Dylan Randall · · Nashville, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 615

I would suggest Miura Laces. They're a good all around shoe for progressing into more difficult climbing. Something as aggressive as Solutions won't really be necessary unless you're focusing on very overhanging boulders or sport climbs. Like others said, it really depends on the type of climbing you'll be doing though, not the difficulty.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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