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2014 Colorado Snow Climbing Thread

MartinH · · Downtown Denver · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 5

Planning on skinning/skiing Pacific Peak on Saturday; please chime in if you have been in or around the area in recent days. thanks for the input.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Rocky_Mtn_High wrote: I think Taylor-B's suggestion is excellent, as those couloirs on Mt. Evans are north-facing and offer a quick approach from the lake (which can be reached by car).
Yes, a great idea. Looks like the Snave is fairly sun sheltered?
Eric Kramak · · Denver, Colorado · Joined May 2011 · Points: 45
Mark E Dixon wrote: Yes, a great idea. Looks like the Snave is fairly sun sheltered?
It sure is.
TheYooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

I'm looking to climb Queens Way on Apache in the Indian Peaks sometime this month, two questions:

-Does anyone know what the conditions on Queens Way route are like? Should I bring a beacon?
-(Unrelated to this peak, but I'm still curious) Is Fourth of July road passable to the Trailhead?

Thanks!

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
TheYooper wrote:I'm looking to climb Queens Way on Apache in the Indian Peaks sometime this month, two questions: -Does anyone know what the conditions on Queens Way route are like? Should I bring a beacon? -(Unrelated to this peak, but I'm still curious) Is Fourth of July road passable to the Trailhead? Thanks!
Queens way is via brainard lake man, unles you plan to come from a different direction. You take the lake isabelle trailhead. Road might be closed, but you can park at the main gait and bike in. Road should be clear and open soon though if not already (site doesn't show current conditions). 4th of July is S. Arapaho area.
Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,431

Via Kendrick Callaway's and David Ponak's pics: Queens way sounds like the usual snow conditions - wet slide debris down low but good to go. Slight runnels and lots of dust. Hit it early. Bootpacked trail or iso snow for the approach, no snowshoes used (trailrunners). The ranger says the road likely won't open until the 13th.

4th is open. Daily train up Skywalker.

TheYooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5
Scott McMahon wrote: Queens way is via brainard lake man, unles you plan to come from a different direction. You take the lake isabelle trailhead. Road might be closed, but you can park at the main gait and bike in. Road should be clear and open soon though if not already (site doesn't show current conditions). 4th of July is S. Arapaho area.
Hey Scott, that second question was unrelated to my Apache question, as noted. I'm familiar with the approach from Brainard. I've got multiple irons in the fire at this point. Still, any advice is appreciated.
TheYooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5
Ryan Marsters wrote:Via Kendrick Callaway's and David Ponak's pics: Queens way sounds like the usual snow conditions - wet slide debris down low but good to go. Slight runnels and lots of dust. Hit it early. Bootpacked trail or iso snow for the approach, no snowshoes used (trailrunners). The ranger says the road likely won't open until the 13th. 4th is open. Daily train up Skywalker.
Thanks for the advice Ryan! How does Juliet on Neva look?
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
TheYooper wrote: Hey Scott, that second question was unrelated to my Apache question, as noted. I'm familiar with the approach from Brainard. I've got multiple irons in the fire at this point. Still, any advice is appreciated.
Sorry.. Well sping skiing is always a personal preferance with a beacon. I "usually" don't but this year is complete soup. There are wet avies anytime of day due to high nightime temps. You'd probably be fine, but honestly this is the first year I've been wearing my beacon this late in the year. Shit is coming down all over the place. If you pick a year to wear one this might be it, however I doubt its enough for a burial. Enough to be hurt but not enough to be buried. All the slide paths I've been crossing are no more than knee deep.

Not a full answer, but the roads are open. Hessie was clear all the way up a few weeks back so I'm sure the 4th is clear too.
Eric Kramak · · Denver, Colorado · Joined May 2011 · Points: 45

Climbed Canary Couloir on the north side of Mt Quandary this morning. Looks like it could be a fun climb in the right conditions. Snow was in good shape but the cruxes were completely melted out - bit of a chossy horror show. I would avoid the couloir until the it starts snowing again.

Quandary, east of the North Gully/Quandary Couloir. Canary is hidden in the dead center.

Technical choss-eneering

The exit pitch of Canary. Currently gross.

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
eric kramak wrote:Climbed Canary Couloir on the north side of Mt Quandary this morning. Looks like it could be a fun climb in the right conditions. Snow was in good shape but the cruxes were completely melted out - bit of a chossy horror show. I would avoid the couloir until the it starts snowing again.

That's cool that you checked out that adventure and keep the booty-gear for your next excursion! I don't think you where too far off for good mixed conditions. Here is a photo from last May (2013 bad snow year) with the Canary in prime mixed shape, there is also a potential mixed runnel between the two prominent couloirs that constantly comes in to condition and it "looks good from the bottom."

Quandary North Face, May 2013.
Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,431

Queen's Way, Isabelle, etc. If anybody has Fri off, would love to do Dreamweaver, Pacific N couly, Kiener's, or similar (harder if you don't mind leading)



Full area pics
Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230

CMC HAMS (High Altitude Mountaineering School) grads reported excellent snow conditions on a variety of couloirs this weekend, incl. Superstar, Shooting Star, Dreamweaver (now featuring ice on the steps!), and Savage.

The striking Savage Couloir, 08June2014.

Natalie M · · Aspen, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,747

Conundrum couloir was in excellent shape for climbing/skiing this weekend.
Also, looking for conditions update/pix on Pacific/Atlantic couloirs for the upcoming weekend (Ryan, can't go on Friday, but will be game Sat/Sun)

Conundrum from Castle

Conundrum couloir cornice

in the couloir

Nick Venechuk · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 60

Dreamweaver was in great shape yesterday (8th June). Solid styrofoam snow, fat ice in the steps (one was all dry rock). Looking at it from the junction it looks pretty thin but it's in! Not sure how long that ice will last though if we get more sunny days.

TheYooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

Conditions for Queens Way on Apache?

TheYooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5
Scott McMahon wrote: Sorry.. Well sping skiing is always a personal preferance with a beacon. I "usually" don't but this year is complete soup. There are wet avies anytime of day due to high nightime temps. You'd probably be fine, but honestly this is the first year I've been wearing my beacon this late in the year. Shit is coming down all over the place. If you pick a year to wear one this might be it, however I doubt its enough for a burial. Enough to be hurt but not enough to be buried. All the slide paths I've been crossing are no more than knee deep. Not a full answer, but the roads are open. Hessie was clear all the way up a few weeks back so I'm sure the 4th is clear too.
FoJ Road was as good as it gets - snow was stable and pretty much perfect on the backside of S. Arapahoe, although Skywalker had a runnel and recent pont-release avi scars.
Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

Nokhu Crags in the Never Summers were in fine shape yesterday. Approach still requires some snowshoes. A number of routes in good condition, and a few snow mushrooms and cornices to keep an eye on. Only saw a few wet slides, but mostly on the east facing aspects. North aspects were not shedding much.

Nokhu Crags 6/9/14

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Does any one have a recent picture of Dark Star on Mt. Meeker?

MyFeetHurt · · Glenwood, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10
Taylor-B. wrote:Does any one have a recent picture of Dark Star on Mt. Meeker?
I took this photo on Sunday from the loft... I've never done the route but it looked "in".

Dark Star 6-8-14
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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