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Too tired to clip!

Original Post
Christian Schrader · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 75

I have been sport climbing more this season, trying to challenge myself on harder grades. One problem that i have noticed on allot of the routes I have been getting on is that I am able to climb the cruxs pretty easily in a try or two but have the hardest time trusting my grip enough to let go and make the clip after or mid crux on a RP burn. What would be a good exercise or routine to help work on this issue? I don't have access to a gym but have a Metolius 3D hangboard and rock rings... outdoors crags too

Thomas Carson · · Jackson, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 91

My advice would be dead hangs, bent arm hangs, and offset hangs. You know, things to increase your static hang endurance. That's my 2 cents.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

practice lock offs for one....two learn to relax at your max

jonathan.lipkin · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 70

I found frenchies helped me a great deal. I started to climb trad about a year ago, and since I'm new at it, it takes me a good sixty seconds to find a good placement sometimes. Being able to lock off my arm while I do this is important, and I think having done a lot of frenchies over the past year has greatly helped.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,123

John is spot on. Also, you can hold on way longer than you are giving yourself credit for, just don't give up on getting the rope clipped and keep your mind at ease even if you fumble. It's way too easy to get excited when you're a little scared and all you want is that safety, once the heart rate starts to take off you'll go to crap quick. Just relax!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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