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Tahquitz Consolation Direct Finish, Last pitch information

Original Post
Luis R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

I would like to get some information for the roof section on the last pitch.
Is this an ease roof? What type of protection does it take? Do I have to run it out?

C Miller · · CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 87,830

The direct finish is a fantastic way to end the route and keep the line pure. While the moves aren't especially difficult (5.10-) they are the crux of the entire route and the position is quite exposed and airy; protection is great and nothing more than the rack used to climb the normal portion of Consolation is needed - have fun!

saltlick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 475

I seem to remember a nice yellow metolius cam near the lip.
The roof is the highlight of the climb, IMO

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Saltlick, let's go get on that some time - been on my list.

saltlick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 475

I'm free tomorrow night...

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Dummy

Luis R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

Thank you to everyone for your input. I will climb this route soon,.

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 917

yea roof move isn't bad at all. maybe like a V1 move, it's just seems harder because placing gear to protect it gets pumpy. And I do believe a yellow TCU/metolius protects it

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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