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Adirondack Off-Widths

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John Lombardi · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 995

Looking for information on climbs, or areas, that are in the 5.6-5.10 range and are Off-Widths in the 'dacks. Or even have a longish off-width section. I know of a couple like Fear of Flying at Moss cliff... but am looking for more!

Thanks!

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff.

What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

P1 of Hessitation. P3 of Prelude. the last pitch of Flash Dance

Glass Tupperware · · Atlanta · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 45

Esthesia at Spider's Web

John Lombardi · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 995
Chris Duca wrote:There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff. What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!
Is the 8+ at beer walls Clutch and Cruise?

Great recommendations, everyone! Thanks.
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Yes, Clutch and Cruise is the 8+. Oh yes, forgot about Esthesia, probably because I always lay the damn thing back!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands?

Matt Stamplis · · Boston, MA · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0

I haven't climbed it but I was told the Route of Oppressive Power (10+) at the High Falls Crag is worth seeking out for those with a hankering for some wideness.

Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70
Nick Goldsmith wrote:Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands?
Yeah I remember it being 5 or so feet of strenuous #2 hands, maybe slightly wider.
Jay Harrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 6,307

Crane Mountain has a few short offwidth sections on a few climbs:
October Crack (Wayout Wall) has a fair amount of fist/off-fist. Note that the Wayout Wall has at least one 150' long narrow OW crack that has yet to see an ascent, and a 50' squeeze chimney yet to be sent as well.
Pain & Pleasure, on the summit cliffs, is a particularly natty OW starting crux, with gritty, "alpine" rock consistency.
Rise & Shine's initial crack is not, technically OW; but it's so painful most people climb it as if it were.
There is a 5.11ish (?) OW overhang direct finish to Ape X yet to be led. I've watched one climber TR through it. Looks painful.
E-Stim also has a wide crack start, although this can be (and usually is) cheated to the right, via faceholds.
ET&LI/Torcher start at a wide OW.
Parallel Passage is not an OW, but can be climbed as a sort of insane tips-jam/squeeze chimney combination. I've seen it done, but would never consider going through that much agony.
Suicidal Sidney is a decent 5.9- OW.
Variety Crack has one of the longer stretches of OW on the "busy" side of the mtn, and is probably the highest quality route in this list.
Two routes were just put up on the Caterpillar Cliff, both of which sport OW cracks. Caveman Cam is slightly tighter than squeeze chimney, 5.7ish, Ben's route is fist to off-fist sized, 5.9ish. Both are still very dirty.
None of the established routes on Crane is full-length OW, but then, Crane's routes are seldom one style of climbing for the entire length. But a good day can be had, touring the mtn. and snagging what pointless pain these samples provide.

Doc from Rocksport · · Lake George, NY · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 21

I think "Birthday Spanking" (5.10d) at the Hudson River Crag is awaiting a 3rd ascent. It should be in shape once the black flies subside in there (November should be a safe bet, judging by this year...)

Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903

Fastest Gun also has an OW variation to the last pitch...which never gets done. 5.10, FA Jim McCarthy, early 60's.

Dan L. · · Saratoga Springs, New York · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Any more offwidths still begging for a FA this fall?

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Fastest Gun also has an OW variation to the last pitch...which never gets done. 5.10, FA Jim McCarthy, early 60's.

 Ha! I backed off that years ago (not sure whether before or after Jim's FA) because I was a very long way out with no pro. I remember it as one of those OW's that isn't too hard to slither back down if things aren't going well (not that I would ever do something like that    ). I don't think Jim would have had any pro either, unless there is a subsidiary crack I missed that takes smaller gear. Or maybe he had some tube chocks and managed to place them? What do folks use nowadays---my memory is that it would be Big Bro country...

Jay Harrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 6,307
Dan L. wrote:Any more offwidths still begging for a FA this fall?
I've got an old project (Tom Lane and I climbed the first 50' of it a few years ago) at the BAW on Crane Mountain. I call it "Welcome to My Nightmare" (A. Cooper fans will know), it begins in the chimney left of Nasty Seven. I envision it going up the chimney, then moving out right via the downward-facing, flaring offwidth at the top of the cave, and working its way onto the face above to join the route "Drive".

I remember a particularly impressive OW on Hayes Mountain, also. Definitely worth checking out.

And if you haven't done Horror Show, on Huckleberry Mountain, well, you're an OW poser. Or so I'm told.

With this dry weather, the long OW on the Wayout Wall should get sent.
Dan L. · · Saratoga Springs, New York · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45
Jay Harrison wrote: I've got an old project (Tom Lane and I climbed the first 50' of it a few years ago) at the BAW on Crane Mountain. I call it "Welcome to My Nightmare" (A. Cooper fans will know), it begins in the chimney left of Nasty Seven. I envision it going up the chimney, then moving out right via the downward-facing, flaring offwidth at the top of the cave, and working its way onto the face above to join the route "Drive".
Thanks Jay! Next time I am at Crane I'll give it a go!

Dan
ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15

Here's the real question:

Are you wondering which routes in the ADK that have a move or two of OW? If so, some good pitches have been mentioned, although some of them are just hand/fist cracks.... Is a route automatically OW because it takes a #4 somewhere on the pitch?

Or are you looking for real, full pitch OW--no face holds, no option for power laybacking, no sneaky hand/fist jams or finger locks in the back/side. If that's more like it, I can come up with Eternity, Route of Oppressive Power, Fear of Flying, Creation of the World.

Dan L. · · Saratoga Springs, New York · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Thanks for the info, I'll make sure to add them to the list!

Mark Berenblum · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105

Something Wicked on the West side of Avalanche Lake is 5.8 with a section of off-width. Some sections are filled with boulders and it's not exactly clean, but it's fun.

Hunter Gallagher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 14
ClimbLikeAGirl wrote: Here's the real question: Are you wondering which routes in the ADK that have a move or two of OW? If so, some good pitches have been mentioned, although some of them are just hand/fist cracks.... Is a route automatically OW because it takes a #4 somewhere on the pitch? Or are you looking for real, full pitch OW--no face holds, no option for power laybacking, no sneaky hand/fist jams or finger locks in the back/side. If that's more like it, I can come up with Eternity, Route of Oppressive Power, Fear of Flying, Creation of the World.

I am looking for as real as possible full length, or as long as possible, OW climbs. Anyone know of any of those? (I found this thread and just got back from Vedauwoo—looking for more OW.)

George Elias · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 15

Any suggestions of a proper #6 offwidth? Thinking chicken wings and calf locks...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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