Maple Canyon Climbing Partners/Recommendations 6/20-6/22?

Hi all,

I'm setting out with my girlfriend this summer on an 8-week climbing trip and we'll be climbing in Maple Canyon for the first time 6/20-6/22.

In past summers, I've posted to the areas we visited with great results, so I'm giving it a go again!:

If you know the area well and need another partner, we'd love to climb with you and get your insight! We have a campsite reservation in the canyon.

Even if you can't make it, would love to hear local's recommendations on best areas/favorite climbs, to complement the guidebook and MP beta we've gleaned thus far.

For reference, I typically lead up to 5.11b sport and my girlfriend goes to 5.10c/d.

Thanks for reading!

Cheers,
-Jason

The Zen Garden wall, the Pipeline (Orangutan wall is a great warmup about a minute further up the canyon from it). Quite a few others but those are my two favorites.

Thanks Tara!! Looks like a couple of our days will be on the weekend. Any areas to avoid those days traffic-wise?

Zen wall, pipeline, and orangutan are all excellent recommendations. But they all are a short approach, and therefore usually busy on the weekends. If they're too busy, head further up the canyon.
Although probably busy on the weekends, you should definitely check out minimum crag and pipedream.
At pipedream there are a few ten's outside the cave, and good 11a's and 11b's. You'll also get to see strong people working 13's and maybe even a 5.14.
Have a fun trip!

Zen Garden is popular on the weekends, but worth it for that grade range.
Also look at the routes by the Bridge area - grades are generous in the guide. The low 11s are probably 10plus.

If you pick up Darren's guide book, there are a gazillion routes to check out- seems like Early Bird Crag is getting a lot of traffic now and have the grade range you are looking for (but it is a fresher so protect your head :).

I would avoid the pipedream - the 10 and 11b on the right side of the cave suck.
The 5.10/11s around the corner are in the sun. On the left side you have a 5.11c (dry spunk), 5.11b (?), 5.11c (solstice), 5.11d (take it for the team and wake and bake).

Minimum- some weekends this wall can be kind of low key, so see how busy it is b/c it definitely worth a stop.