Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Andy Ross & Gene Vallee (alt leads) |
Page Views: | 2,315 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | apross on Jun 19, 2011 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1. Climb the slab with nice chickenheads and set up a nuts/small cams belay. 60ft 5.10
Pitch 2. Here it joins Ralph, Herb etc for 20ft passing an awkward wide slot. Just past the slot is a right leaning corner. Step into this and undercling, jam, stem and layback your way to a bolt. Swing right and hand traverse a rail to reach the chimney. Climb the chimney untill you can step right on to a nice patina face. Clip a bolt and romp up to the anchor. 100ft 5.11
Location
Rap to the Lunar Tick anchor and then ground.
You can lower to the Lunar Tick anchor if you do it in 2 pitches. Makes for a good view to watch your second on the last pitch.
Protection
Pitch 2. Nice to have a 5" cam for the 5.8 awkward slot off the belay but not super cruical.
Then 1/2" to 3" cams. Wire set, peenuts and lots of long slings.
NOTE. Make sure you save some long slings for any gear placed in chimney. It will help on rope drag for the final upper face.
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