Advice on a one day climb in Yosemite August

I'm a Brit on a family California Road Trip and am in Yosemite on Aug 6 & 7. Have a pass out to climb on one day. Am looking for advice on the feasibility of this regarding heat, venues, partners/guides. Lead trad in UK at around 5.10a, and can follow much harder. Any advice gratefully received.

Nutcracker is a classic 5 pitch 5.8. A must do for a first time visitor IMO. Central Pillar of Frenzy might be a better choice when it's warm out as it gets a lot of shade. It goes at 5.9 and also is 5 pitches long.

Ick...don't climb Nutcracker in August. Or, maybe do, but start late in the afternoon / eeeeearly morning.

Right before the full moon, which is when you're visiting, is a great time for a full moon Snake Dike. Otherwise it'll be pretty hot.

Royal Arches/Crest Jewel and top out to the Tuolumne road. 10A, big height gain and classic. You only need a minimal rack.

Ick...Royal Arches in August.

Go climb the East Buttress of Middle

Great route, good temps, and you can french free through the crux if you need.

RA is fine if you start really early.. you'll be at the top by 9am. East Buttt is a pile os overated flaring chimneys with a sucky descent

Doing a newer "variation" and using the "new" rap route...I'd take EB any day over Royal Arches. But anyways, that's my suggestion.

Braille Book? Regular Route on Higher Cathedral Spire? NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock? All of these are on the south side of the valley, so north facing. Braille Book is 6 pitches of fairly steep 5.8, then hike to the top of Higher Cathedral Rock for an excellent view of El Cap. It's a long, stiff walk up to the start of the climb, and a long walk back down, but well worth it. Regular Route on Higher Cathedral Spire is 5.9, 5 pitches and finishes on top of Higher Cathedral Spire, which is a really cool summit. I'd suggest it as a "plan B" to Braille Book if Braille Book is crowded or you don't want to hike up that far. Some people do both routes in a day, just to tick both routes without making the hike up Spires Gully twice.

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock might stretch the limits of your one day pass, but it's an excellent route if you can move fast enough to finish it in one day. Less hiking and lots more climbing than the other two, and finishing on top of Higher Cathedral Rock gives you an excellent look at El Cap, just like Braille Book.

Ryan Nevius wrote:Go climb the East Buttress of Middle Great route, good temps, and you can french free through the crux if you need.

nut cracker will probably be really hot. I did after seven in august once and youre in sun all day. Do central pillar of frenzy such a classic classic 5.9. 10 min approach from the parking lot/road and shaded most of the day.

I recently did half of royal arches and disliked it so much we bailed. Way to much scrambling compared to actual physical climbing.

Don't do anything in the valley in August. Been there some that, it blows. Go to toulome.

NorCalNomad wrote:Don't do anything in the valley in August. Been there some that, it blows. Go to toulome.

NorCalNomad wrote:Don't do anything in the valley in August. Been there some that, it blows. Go to toulome.

I was thinking Tuolumne as well. N. Face of Fairview, though you'll probably have company. Lucky Streaks is a tad harder than what you lead (it's really only abut .10b or so), but if you follow much harder you can probably free it or a very short section of french free. Crying in Time Again (5.9). Go to Daff Dome and climb West Crack and then do Crescent Arch or Cooke Book (.10a).

I think you could find something in the Valley to climb, despite the heat. I think the NE Buttress of HCR is the best long moderate route in the Valley. Snake Dike will be warm but worth it. If you are good at slab then Quicksilver will be nice and cool, though it's runout so be warned. Central Pillar is absolutely terrific as well though check the sun/shade aspect. Same with Paradise Lost. One heads up section though the rest is great.

Steck-Salathé on the Sentinel stays cool mid-summer.

Thanks for this. Any advice on finding partners, or hiring a guide?

+1 on Tuolumne.

Obviously, you've got to go hang out in the Valley, no way around that, but for sweet climbing temps in a totally gorgeous setting, Tuolumne in August is pretty hard to beat. Wouldn't hurt to round out the day with dinner and a head-sized slice of mixed berry pie at the Tioga Pass Diner either.

Super easy, but Tenaya Peak can be a fun alternative. Cathedral's an awesome day out, though. Starting early and mid-week on that one is well worth the effort, avoid the traffic jam at the top...

Guide service: yosemitepark.com/rock-climb… . For partners, use the camp 4 bulletin board or the partner finder on this website. Cell phone coverage in the park is not the best, so if you're trying to make contact with a potential partner it's best to text or use e-mail (wi-fi can be found in a few places in the valley).

Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peak and Tenaya Peak are all excellent options if you decide to hit the Meadows instead of the Valley. Does your family's itinerary include Tuolumne Meadows? It's a very pretty part of the park, and well worth a visit.

Another vote for East Butt of Middle Cathedral or for heading up to Tuolumne.

I'd look into Tenaya Peak in Tuolumne ... Nice and cool , beautiful views , and take a dip in the lake when your done ...