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Indian Creek is Cool, but...

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
Jon Zucco wrote: So in your opinion, introverted people are more prick-like than extroverted people?
Are you mental? He just said there were no pricks!
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

I may be!

I read it as, "there were no pricks per se, but there were a few introverts, which is to be expected, however displeasing they may be."

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

maybe they just didn't want to party when he pulled in at 3 a.m.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Simple solution here.... just ignore and avoid them.

Answer is in the 2nd sentence of your original post. "splitter cracks as far as the eye can see"... point being, you went to the crowded Supercrack parking lot instead?

No matter where you go, round the world... the further you hike from the parking lot, the less likely you are to run across this sort jerk and their poor behavior.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860
Jon Zucco wrote:I may be! I read it as, "there were no pricks per se, but there were a few introverts, which is to be expected, however displeasing they may be."
Believe you confused his statement.

Introverts are by their nature difficult to read... such that judging if one to be a prick or not can be quite difficult, so little to go upon.

Extroverts are simple to read... you just listen and they tell you everything you wanted to know... the prick is often just that guy who just won't stop spraying. No matter, they sort of announce themselves ;)

These are two completely separate groups but an individual can be a member of both groups. Though, as a generalization, I submit that I think most pricks are likely to be extraverts.
Shirtless Mike · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 5,839
Andrewprime1 wrote: Where are the easy going trad leaders that I thought I was akin to? What is it about IC that attracts the almost "sport climber" mentality? I am sorry to use that as my describing term, but I felt like I was climbing at the Pipedream Wall in Maple...
Funny, in my experience I've found trad climbers to be way more intense and less easy going than sport climbers. Only trad climbing have I ever been drawn into a race to the base to be the first one on the route, or had someone flip out that we were taking too long on an easy route that they wanted to run-up. I've found the "Pipe Scene" to be very chill and enjoyable in comparison, sure some wobblers may be thrown, but everyone is friendly and encouraging on the ground.

A big part of it is the style of climbing, in general trad climbing takes longer, and it's a bigger deal who gets on the route first. But while most trad climbers I've met have been nice, most / all of my unpleasant experiences with people have been at trad areas.

I've been turned away from the creek in the prime seasons, because it is just so damn crowded. I need to get better at that style so I can warm up on the 5.11's and miss most of the crowds, but for now I'm looking to climb the same warmups and classics as everyone else which adds to the difficulty and frustration.

Maybe I'm just lucky to climb mostly in New Mexico, but all the major sport areas I've climbed Maple, RRG, Ten Sleep, people have been pretty chill. Only sport area that people weren't chill was EPC, but that is mostly traddies who wanted to climb multi-pitch with draws only.
mike1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 10
Chris Schmidt wrote:Most of them are from Boulder
I get giddy when i see this stuff cuz I love a great troll and the col-rad one never gets old !

Make me wonder- How many Col-rads would be willing to not climb/ski in Utah if the Utards (capitalized ?) would stay out of Colorado ?

I will cast the first vote for being willing to maintain my utard status but would like the option to negotiate with residents of Idaho, California (including surfing privileges, and Wyoming.
marty funkhouser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 20

Oh, it turned into a sport vs trad thing again. Riveting. Hold on while I go run and grab a pen and some paper.

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

Preface: I'll collectively say what everyone else had already said.

You'll find two type of people here, ones that are there to climb, and ones that are there for the overall experience and that's where the argument stems from. Whether one is the "trad mentality" and one is the "sport mentality" is another argument all together.

You do have people racing to the crag and then on the other end of the spectrum you have people bringing lawn chairs and coolers with them.

Sure you want a laid back experience but that party right on your tail might want to tick as many 11's in a day as possible. To that end bridging that relationship is sometimes difficult, when you just sent the seventh person in your party to top rope Annunaki or when you just ran up the trail to get to Chocolate Corner before the people in front of you.

Edit: So before you head down there keep an open mind, it's a great place and we shouldn't stop sharing it.

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

You can have Supercrack all to yourself in the middle of the busiest weekends if you're willing to stay past 5 or 6 PM depending on the season... Seems like everyone at the Creek is on the early train, people roll through camp at 7AM on their way to the crag before I've even felt the need to go take a piss. By 5PM everyone is pumped out or has run out of spray and heads back to camp aiming for an 8PM bed time...

chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0
DisturbingThePeace wrote: Funny, in my experience I've found trad climbers to be way more intense and less easy going than sport climbers. Only trad climbing have I ever been drawn into a race to the base to be the first one on the route, or had someone flip out that we were taking too long on an easy route that they wanted to run-up. I've found the "Pipe Scene" to be very chill and enjoyable in comparison, sure some wobblers may be thrown, but everyone is friendly and encouraging on the ground. A big part of it is the style of climbing, in general trad climbing takes longer, and it's a bigger deal who gets on the route first. But while most trad climbers I've met have been nice, most / all of my unpleasant experiences with people have been at trad areas. I've been turned away from the creek in the prime seasons, because it is just so damn crowded. I need to get better at that style so I can warm up on the 5.11's and miss most of the crowds, but for now I'm looking to climb the same warmups and classics as everyone else which adds to the difficulty and frustration. Maybe I'm just lucky to climb mostly in New Mexico, but all the major sport areas I've climbed Maple, RRG, Ten Sleep, people have been pretty chill. Only sport area that people weren't chill was EPC, but that is mostly traddies who wanted to climb multi-pitch with draws only.
+1. Seems like once sport got through the lycra anorexic phase of 20 years ago, to get respect, all that matters today in most sport environs is being positive and trying hard regardless of the route/number you are trying to RP.

Trad has a whole different set of unspoken rules based an appearances and a'hardpersoness' hierarchy now as outlined by the OP. Things have come full circle and the IC weekend Trad is now the pretentious hipster of the climbing world.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Travis Haussener wrote: it's a great place and we shouldn't stop sharing it.
from CO arent you?

David Sahalie wrote: Things have come full circle and the IC weekend Trad is now the pretentious hipster of the climbing world.
PBR on me bro, Heiny if u r anti GMO
Jamespio Piotrowski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5
mike1 wrote: I get giddy when i see this stuff cuz I love a great troll and the col-rad one never gets old ! Make me wonder- How many Col-rads would be willing to not climb/ski in Utah if the Utards (capitalized ?) would stay out of Colorado ? I will cast the first vote for being willing to maintain my utard status but would like the option to negotiate with residents of Idaho, California (including surfing privileges, and Wyoming.
We're willing to grant City of Rocks/Castle Rock privileges, for Moab/IC/Zion. And how about Salmon River rafting for Wasatch skiing?

As to the Coloradans, at least they're not Texans, at least, not all of 'em are, yet.
lou · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 60

As climbing areas become crowded; we need to become more socially conscious and considerate. If you are out and alone on a remote Sierra climb; go for it, climb naked, bring all your dogs off leash ( and the barking, running over ropes, rummaging in your packs, poopin at the base of climbs ), bring your screaming 3 year old, blast your ipod, talk loud , scream, drop the f bomb all over! But in crowded areas its a nice gesture to be considerate of others, and their right to enjoy the crag in peace. I know its the selfie, look at me, be like me generation. We need to be just not thinkin of ourselves when climbing around alot of others!! A little consideration goes a long way! I bring my pup to the crag always and always on leash. Climbers give me the " oh shit loose dog " look then smile and say how nice it is to see a dog not running amok. I leash him up to a shady nook with water and his pad and he is in heaven. If you want to party to 2am; think about not doing it at Bridger Jacks camp on a busy weekend. Maybe take your group out to a remote area to rave all you want. Yes we all have the "right" to do as we please; and IC does not have paid and monitored campgrounds, yet!! Andrewprime you speak of inconsiderate folks makin noise by your camp; then you are inconsiderate with loose dogs? If we are all as nice as we can be and think of others... there may not seem to so many douchbags out there; and we may not be thought of as the same. Not saying your a noob... take this as friendly ... sometimes we all need to look inward

cheers.. lou

Clifton Santiago · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Jingoism is alive and well. All y'all that live in the intermountain West and moved there to pursue a more open, liberated and semi-alternative lifestyle peppered with danger sports and all the associated commercial accoutrements to reinforce your identification with, or facsimilification of, a Patagonia catalogue spread, thou be best served not throwing stones.
There is a special kind of narcissism that pervades these types of threads- the idea that my pursuits or interests are somehow unique, and being unique, uniquely mine to define and moralize. The joke is you are the late-comer, the guy/gal trying to close the door behind you. The talent, foresight, spirit, and commitment required to even make your adopted thing a thing has already moved on. You are the johnny-come-lately sucking on the shriveled teat of a leftover adventure, yet can't stop yammering about your idealistic first encounter with canned fun, and how it's only gotten watered down in the six months since you got here.
There are 27 climbers FROM Boulder.
There are 12 climbers FROM SLC.
The rest are lucky people whose circumstance and/or inclination led them to realize participation in an intoxicating sport inspired them to identify with the surroundings of said intoxication, and idealize and tribalize it.

Vincent Wheels · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 5

The wolf does not care what the sheep think.

Enjoy the rocks, avoid the people.

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30
jeff lebowski wrote:Oh, it turned into a sport vs trad thing again. Riveting. Hold on while I go run and grab a pen and some paper.
Lebowski - Nothing is fucked dude
Piton Ron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

I talked about the creek with Jimmy Dunn this week who first climbed there in '71.

My own experience; I'm the one climber that didn't use the paved approach!

In 1981 I left Moab and drove up Kane Springs and over Hurrah Pass, then around Hatch Point and continued south to the creek.
I checked it out after making the FA of a dome by Elephant Hill.

By then I had been desert climbing for many years and realized that this area, with paved access, would be the guinea pig for soft rock areas.
I knew plenty of Wingate canyons with crack climbing just as good, but no road.

So,... a third of a century later I returned this very month.

The people were friendly enough, but it is obvious that we are loving the place to death. We need rap chains and better trails, but I have no solutions to the obvious crack wear.

Good thing there are so many other Wingate areas,..

Elliott Crooks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 10

There are literally a couple of hundred miles of Wingate sandstone out there, all with nice climbable cracks: you just have to be willing to do the approaches. Indian Creek is popular because it's great climbing & short approaches. Generalizing, rock jocks don't do well with other than short approaches. Done some great FAs with long/obscure approaches.

Phil Esra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 100

My first decade of outdoor climbing was all trad, all the time. In the last 2 years I've been sport climbing more often than not. I harbor lots of stereotypes about all kinds of climbers and people, and I enjoy how often I'm wrong. The one constant is that the more crowded the routes, and the larger the groups, the more likely somebody's going to go away unhappy. And young guys who have, say, x months of climbing experience, and are in a large group that includes women, do tend to spray loud. It's a mating thing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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