Technical Knee-Highs
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 28 votes
Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,284 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | GRK on Aug 25, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
A more beefed up version of its neighbor , Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.
Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).
Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)
Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).
Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)
Location
Technical Knee-Highs sits on the far north side of the buttress, just right of Non-Technical Church Socks
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