Must Do Climbs in the Sierra Nevada

My climbing partner and I are gearing up for a 3-4 week trip touring the Sierra Nevada. What routes and areas are must dos? I think we're prioritizing beautiful areas and routes over anything. Both of us are competent 5.10 trad leaders. Looking to do as many ultra classic/aesthetic climbs we can manage.

We're from Chico, CA and will start our trip in Tahoe. Most likely Lovers Leap, however I'm not too familiar with the climbing in tahoe so would love suggestions here. Maybe something overlooking the lake?

We're then making our way down the eastside and are meeting some friends in Bishop. We're gonna be doing the classing bishop bouldering thing and are looking to climb the Cardinal Pinnacle.

After bishop (and maybe the whitney lone pine area) we're going down and around to the westside and The Needles will be our first stop on the west side.

Next we're going to Sequoia NP and Kings Canyon. Would love suggestions here.

Stopping at Shuteye Ridge for a bit before we drop into Yosemite. Really wanna do the Lost Arrow Spire. Hoping the Waterfall will be rushing.

Next up would be Tuolumne. Looking to do the Matthes Crest.

And then we're finishing up the trip with the Red Dihedral on The Incredible Hulk.

So any thoughts on the destinations? Any other must do routes based on our climbing level?

You're already on the right track by not calling them the "Sierras". Pet Peeve of mine. Last time I checked there was only one mountain range.

Only been to a few places on your list. Lovers Leap is wonderful. The climbing is cool and the camping and setting are fantastic. Get on Travelers, Hospital Corner, and Surrealistic to Corrugation. Watch for snakes!

You cant go wrong with the Mathes Crest. Do the whole thing if you're feeling up to it. I did Cathedral one day, camped at Echo Lake (I think), then did Mathes the next day then walked out. Great 2 days.

As with almost ALL areas in the Sierra, BRING BUG SPRAY!

p.s. Charlotte Dome in Kings is a must-do classic and very fun, or so I've heard.

Enjoy the Range of Light.

camp4climber wrote:Next we're going to Sequoia NP and Kings Canyon. Would love suggestions here.

Moro Rock is pretty awesome. Both the approach and descent are about as relaxed as you can ask for.
If you want to get a lot of climbing in without a lot of hassle, Moro would be your best bet for Sequoia.

Other than the Hulk, it sounds like you just want to do day trips?

If you are up for some overnight trips, there is a whole world of great backcountry alpine climbing. The Supertopo books covers many of the classics:

supertopo.com/packs/highsie…

For the Tahoe area if you want scenic and 5.10 trad, I highly recommend Eagle Creek Canyon, assuming the snow is gone by the time you're there.

@Andy Cathedral's a great suggestion. We'll add that one to the list. And thanks for the bug spray tip! Will definitely remember that. Will check out Charlotte Dome.

@Ben Good to hear about Moro Rock. It looks cool from the mtn proj page, but I haven't heard any first hand accounts of it yet. Will definitely check this out.

@Frank For the most part day trips would be easiest, but I'm definitely not opposed to backpacking in. I actually do have the High Sierra guide book. We talked about doing the east buttress up whitney. Some of the peaks are beautiful. We'll go through the book together and pick out a couple. Any personal recommendations?

@Paul Cool thanks for the rec! As far as snow we're planning on leaving the second week of June. So hopefully we're good on snow by then. Temps should be nice for most areas I'm hoping.

I did the Southeast face of Clyde Minaret several years ago. Great climb and the backpack into Minaret Lake was six fairly gentle miles.

Also, the West Ridge of Conness is a long, easy climb on good rock, easily done in a (longish) day.

For day trips, don't leave out The Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne. That is some good stuff!

Bear Creek Spire is a great, pretty easy alpine climb with great views and a fairly easy approach--for the Sierra. Top out at nearly 14,000 feet! Can do car-to-car, but more enjoyable to BP in, make camp, then climb and hike out the second day.

Oh yeah. 3rd Pillar of Dana!

Another moderate multi-pitch with a tame approach can be done in SEKI. It's called Timex Route on The Watchtower. Have not done it, but looks fun.

Serenity crack to sons of yesterday is a must do for the 5.10 traddie in Yosemite. "Only" 6 pitches but fully classic.

Red dihedral is great, but only has a tiny bit of 5.10. Positive vibrations is much more sustained at hard 5.10.

If you have time/desire for a causal day, get on the cathedral spire before or after mathea crest.

I 2nd the Matthes crest in Tuolomne. Also OZ.

Just get The Good, the Great, and the Awesome by Peter Croft. Read it cover to cover (because it's mostly entertaining). Pick a route at random. They're all great High Sierra routes.

EDIT: To add the list of routes from the book (Grade 5 and under).

Grade V

Palisades (Temple Crag/Gayley/Sill), rating depends on route ***
Dark Star on Temple Crag, 5.10c**
Keeler Needle on Whitney, 5.10c*
Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk, 5.11a***
SW Face of Conness, 5.10c**

Grade IV

Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag, 5.10a**
Palisades (T-bolt to Sill), 5.9***
Red Dihedral (aka Ygdrasil)on the Incredible Hulk, 5.10c***
SW Face of Clyde Minaret, 5.8*
Moon Goddess Arete on Temple Crag, 5.8*
Venusian Blind on Temple Crag, 5.7***
Matthes Crest, 5.7***
Western Front on Russell, 5.10c**
W Ridge of Conness, 5.6***
Cathedral Traverse, 5.6*
E Face Direct of Outguard Spire, 5.10d*

Grade III

Mithral Dihedral on Russell, 5.10a**
Fishhook Arete on Russell, 5.8**
N Buttress on Goode, 5.9*
S Face of Charlotte Dome, 5.8***
Regular Route on Third Pillar of Dana, 5.10a**
NE Gully of Laurel, 5.2**
E Face of Whitney, 5.7***
E Buttress of Whitney, 5.7***
N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak, 5.5**
N Arete on Bear Creek Spire, 5.8*
E Arete on Humphreys, 5.5*
N Ridge of Conness, 5.6**
NE Ridge on Bear Creek Spire, Cl 4***
SE Buttress of Cathedral, 5.7***
E Face of Middle Palisade, Cl 3***
E Chute of Basin, Cl 4*

Grade II

Swiss Arete on Sill, 5.7***
E Arete on Russell, Cl 3***
N Arete of Crystal Crag, 5.7**
NW Slope of Agassiz, Cl 2**

There are some cragging options listed in the book as well (Cardinal Pinnacle, OZ, and others). As you can see, many of the routes listed in others' comments are included here.

Thunderbolt to Sill traverse, or any portion thereof. Oz to Gram Traverse would be good, too.

AK123 wrote: Do you also think the Cascades should be referred to as the Cascade?

The Spanish word "sierra" means "range of mountains." This is why you often see it with another word...e.g. Sierra Blanca (White Range) or Sierra Madre (Mother Range). Ansel Adams himself even hated the use of the word "Sierras." That said...does omitting the "Nevada" also make it incorrect?

Every person I've ever met who has spent significant time in (and subsequently fallen in love with) this range and calls it "The Sierra" or "The Sierra Nevada" but never "The Sierras." Honestly, I don't really care.

So, an anglicizing of a Spanish word? Worse things have happened. I refer to the range correctly, but I find the peeve boorish and pedantic as played out ad nauseum on the climbing boards. I guess populating too many climbing sites has given me my own foolish hypersensitivity then. A reaction to a reaction. Yay, internets!

For multi-pitch routes in the High Sierra (with subtantial approach hikes), for those wanting a guidebook that focuses on detailed info instead of stories, I think the
Chris McNamara guidebook (recently revised)
is clearly superior to the older books.

... except regarding the Crystal Crag, where McNamara unfortunately repeated the old idea of the "North arete" ... (but that route is a one-move crux, mostly not on any arete, much loose rock, justified by one little white crystal pillar near its top. It's the South side of the Crystal Crag that offers sounder rock, interesting moves, esthetic position on or near the arete. Then if it matters, can traverse the summit ridge to visit that little white nub of crystal.)

Ken

Red Rocks Red Rocks Red Rocks

The Valley
Jtree
The Creek

Why the hell do we care about certain "bastardization" of names/words, and not others?
Oh yeah, so we can feel smug about being "right".

OP: enjoy! Tons of must do climb in the Sierras.

AK123 wrote: Do you also think the Cascades should be referred to as the Cascade?

No, because that would be incorrect.

Colonel Mustard wrote:So, the mispronunciation of a Spanish word? Worse things have happened. I refer to the range correctly, but I find the peeve boorish and pedantic as played out ad nauseum on the climbing boards. I guess populating too many climbing sites has given me my own foolish hypersensitivity then. A reaction to a reaction. Yay, internets!

Fixed!

I find your use of the words boorish and pedantic when referring to a post on a climbing forum to be...boorish and pedantic. :)

While we're on the subject! I also HATE when people call them the "Grand Tetons".

You might wish to put Boney Fingers on that list, do the direct start.

Whitney Portal....

It will stretch your skills if your a 5.10 person, but after so much climbing you should be in tune.

Andy Novak wrote: No, because that would be incorrect.

I like climbing in the Sierras. I think the Sierras are pretty. I think the weather in the Sierras is wonderful during the summer. Want me to continue?

Get a grip man. Call it whatever you like. Sheesh.