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Question on tendon injury

Original Post
Matt Wilson · · Vermont, USA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 316

So maybe 2 months back I had a foot slip off a hold and the 2 finger shallow pocket my left ring/middle finger was holding caught my fall. I felt the 2 tendons tweak, although not badly. Anyways, fast forward to now, and I have been climbing less often (giving myself a week or 2 off at a time to rest), and avoiding super crimpy stuff. Middle finger is all better, but my ring finger is not yet fully healed.

When I climb on the finger, it doesn't hurt. It might feel a tad sore when using a crimp, but no alarming pain. The thing is, the next day my finger will ache a bit where the injury is. It's not bad, I can extend my finger without pain, and only if I squeeze my fist tightly does it feel a bit sore. However, if I press on the specific spot of the tendon, it hurts. Not terribly, but more so than when I squeeze.

Lastly, it is slightly swollen. Enough that I can't put my wedding ring on without a lot of effort, but not enough to tell it's swollen by looking at it.

So my question is, is this soreness a result of the tendon healing and the blood flow from the swelling? Should I be worried? Like I said, it's not bad pain (although pressing the tendon where it is injured is very uncomfortable), and it doesn't hurt when I climb more than like a 1 (on a scale of 1 to 10).

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

I've had finger injuries still about that bad after a month or two -- then went on to make a full recovery so after say four to six months I noticed no more pain during or after climbing, and no noticeable swelling.
(Perhaps wearing a ring on that finger is making you over-sensitive about swelling?)

From reading lots of stories on this and other forums over the past couple of years, it sounds like some people have recovered well from worse symptoms than yours.

. (my completely non-expert observations) .

Ken

P.S. Another completely non-expert guess ...
I'm coming to suspect that after millions of years of animal evolution, the human body is now designed to recover from most injuries by performing ongoing active use of the injured parts. Because animals carrying genetic designs that did not offer as effective a mechanism for active recovery did not succeed in competing in their niche for food, survival, reproduction -- so those designs are no longer around much in our genes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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