Brand new rope made in 2011. Normal?
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I just got a new Beal Stinger from backcountry. According to the markings on rope ( bealplanet.com/sport/anglai…), it was manufactured in 2011, so it's 2-3 years old already. Should that concern me at all? I haven't paid attention to this on other ropes I've owned, so I don't know if this is normal. |
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An unused and stored properly rope can last up to 10 years. This is because the properties of nylon will begin to degrade over time, so even if a rope is unused it is best not to use it after its life expectancy. Obviously, the life expectancy will be shorter the more you use the rope. If it was manufactured in 2011 and you want to get 3-4 years of infrequent use, you should be fine. Personally, I would return it because if I am paying full price for a rope, I want the rope to be manufactured in the past 6-12 months. I don't want the rope that was sitting around for a for years. |
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If you read the literature concerning oxidation of nylon with respect to time you'll find that the change in mechanical properties after 3 years at room temperature is very small. I wouldn't hesitate to climb with it. |
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It was on sale. If there's really nothing to worry about (as seems to be the opinion of those who have posted) then that's fine. But if it's going to mean the rope is less durable in the long run, then it wouldn't be worth the extra small savings. |
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youll be totally and utterly fine |
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Most of my ropes are at least 3 years old and they are well used. I hope to get another 3 years out of them since I mostly boulder now and, like you, will be using them "infrequently." |
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Heres an article talking about some tests the UIAA did on ropes that were very old and very used. (Most of them were old retired ropes from guiding companies etc...) None of them broke, and these had been used for years and years and years. vertikalguiden.se/concrete/… |
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The "rule" is 10 years from First Use with a recommended maximum life of 15 years from date of manufacture. You lose nothing by buying a rope made in 2011. Ropes made back in 2008/2009 still have their Full potential useful life of 10 years after you open them and use them for the first time. |
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Your rope is indeed fine, BUT given the well known lifespan recommendations of climbing nylon, and a company's unwillingness to legal exposure (however remote), if you are the whiny type, I would not be at all surprised if you could get the seller or manufacturer to replace it with a newer one. |
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20 kN wrote: And yet the seat belt in your 1960 Dodge Dart, which is made from nylon as well, will still hold if you slam into a K-Rail at 80MPH. You probably wont live, but it wont be because the seat belt broke. If the rope is brand new, I would not have a problem using it, regardless of its age as so long as it is in good condition. But that's just me.I'm not comparing car seat belts and climbing ropes. They may both be made from nylon but I'm sure the manufacturing process and standards are different. In regards to nylon degrading over time, even if stored properly results in the nylon losing some of its ability to stretch, thus the rope becomes less dynamic over time, creating higher forces on the rope, pro, and climber. I do not know the specifics or nor am I an expert on the subject. This is just what I have gathered from my personal research on the topic. I would still climb with the OP's rope. |
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Thanks for all the responses. I was never concerned about whether it was fine to climb with this rope right now, but rather if it might have a shorter lifespan that a rope used the same amount that was manufactured more recently (which would negate the savings of buying a rope on sale). I'm going to keep the rope, and hopefully it will last a long time! |
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bearbreeder wrote:youll be totally and utterly fine theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil… ;)& Brendan Magee wrote:An unused and stored properly rope can last up to 10 years. This is because the properties of nylon will begin to degrade over time, so even if a rope is unused it is best not to use it after its life expectancy. Obviously, the life expectancy will be shorter the more you use the rope. If it was manufactured in 2011 and you want to get 3-4 years of infrequent use, you should be fine. Personally, I would return it because if I am paying full price for a rope, I want the rope to be manufactured in the past 6-12 months. I don't want the rope that was sitting around for a for years.& Max Forbes wrote:Heres an article talking about some tests the UIAA did on ropes that were very old and very used. (Most of them were old retired ropes from guiding companies etc...) None of them broke, and these had been used for years and years and years. vertikalguiden.se/concrete/… Your rope is most definelty fine.< Okay so here we. Are . How did the 'old' new rope hold up? I have a rope that has not been opened; Still in a factory coil from 2000! It has been in its original plastic bag, & a tube style rope bag in a bed room closet for the last ten years. I bought three 200ft (60m) ropes, one 10.5 m and two 9.8mm Maxim 'dry' ropes. The '10.5' has been a work horse. As my everyday to 4 days a week, regular climbing routine shifted to every weekend and then to only a few days a month - it has been my main rope. The two 9.8s have not seen daylight, only one has been un-coiled. I know how people today view old gear and ropes. Replace everything every five years? The unused - in the closet- rope is not my oldest rope. I regularly used a 35+ year old 150 ft 9.mm Edilwise Extreme. This summer I retired that rope. I have replaced it with its twin. Bought at the same time as the 'Extreme' it cost more at the time -the superior of the two- but a, still skinny, 9 mm. It is a Mammut Arova 1/2 Rope. (the tape ends on both short ropes are still readable ) I take very good care of my ropes. I always (top rope and lead) use these short ropes doubled, In two strands, so , 70 ft long rope when you take the tie in knot into account . That means belaying using a forty foot long top rope, belaying through both slots, and tieing-in. to both ends. I have been doing this since before '90 when I was living and climbing at the "Water Works" in the Gunks, Where many of the lines are 25 ft (now) Boulder problems |
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Michael Schneider wrote: I always (top rope and lead) use these short ropes doubled, In two strands, so , 70 ft long rope when you take the tie in knot into account . That means belaying using a forty foot long top rope, belaying through both slots, and tieing-in. to both ends.If you're lead falling on two strands of UIAA rated single rope, you are dramatically increasing the forces exerted on the gear and yourself. But I guess it hasn't killed you yet. |