Old Bolts on practice wall and other areas
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I just started climbing again after years off. I have taken people lately to the practice wall at windy point as well as places like Agatha Christie. The question I have is, who is governing the bolts? These are the same bolts that have been there for decades. Most of them are old button-heads, with cold shuts that are so loose they are almost spinning. I make it a point to backup all these anchors as everything has a shelf life, but I have noticed I am the only one that does. I have even witnessed certified guides (their claim) with beginners belaying, rappelling or hanging on these loose anchors. Is there anyone currently in our climbing community that is taking on the task of retrofitting and replacing them? |
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I found this website safeclimbing.org/index.htm last night while exploring for rules for updating bolts in California. Honestly though I'd guess it's all of our responsibilities to remove/replace them. |
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^^^^^^^^^ +1 |
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The bolts at practice cliff were replaced in '05 if my memory serves me correct. There is also a tag on one of the anchors with Ben Burnam's initials and the year - "05". |
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Assessing anchors is the responsibility of the climber using them. I've noticed that the cold shuts at Practice Cliff are somewhat wiggly, but I also understand the physics of that particular situation and I feel that they are safe for my use in a Toprope scenario. For what it's worth, I make sure my anchor is self equalizing & redundant with limited extension in case of a single bolt failing. |