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For Desert Rats Only
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Cirque of the Climbables
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Corner Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deep Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Epitaph T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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For Desert Rats Only T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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I Dream of Jeannie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 |
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Playing Hooky 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jim Dunn et al. 1994 |
| Page Views: | 3,213 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | andrew kulmatiski on Oct 15, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
a.k.a. Stairway to heaven. a.k.a. Jimmy's Chimney
An epic will ensue. The first pitch can be climbed on the left or right side of a bulge in the cliff. We climbed the right side b/c you approach that side first on the trail, but i would recommend climbing the left side. We rapped the left side and the rock looked better. Either way the first pitch is 5.9 to easy 5.10 and not the reason you are there. The second pitch follows the left side of the bulge up a great left facing corner (5.10) with a finger crack that fades away. Make an exciting exit move from the corner to the face on the right. Finish the pitch on some fun face climbing (also 5.10). Two pins for pro along the way (small stuff needed for the corner). I believe we linked this and the next easy pitch (5.7) to a small alcove below the beckoning chimney. Let the work begin. From here you look up into a bombay chimney. You can get gear in the first 50' but after that it's 100' of (5.11) squirming. It took me 3 hours to lead the the 150' chimney pitch - I think i cried a little. After the chimney there is a short (50') layback crack to the anchors (5.10).
An epic will ensue. The first pitch can be climbed on the left or right side of a bulge in the cliff. We climbed the right side b/c you approach that side first on the trail, but i would recommend climbing the left side. We rapped the left side and the rock looked better. Either way the first pitch is 5.9 to easy 5.10 and not the reason you are there. The second pitch follows the left side of the bulge up a great left facing corner (5.10) with a finger crack that fades away. Make an exciting exit move from the corner to the face on the right. Finish the pitch on some fun face climbing (also 5.10). Two pins for pro along the way (small stuff needed for the corner). I believe we linked this and the next easy pitch (5.7) to a small alcove below the beckoning chimney. Let the work begin. From here you look up into a bombay chimney. You can get gear in the first 50' but after that it's 100' of (5.11) squirming. It took me 3 hours to lead the the 150' chimney pitch - I think i cried a little. After the chimney there is a short (50') layback crack to the anchors (5.10).
Location
An obvious line up the right side of the third tombstone. 3 long double-rope rappels will get you down.
The route follows the left side of the obvious shadows on the third tombstone (right of photo Id# 105922426). Start in the shadow at the bottom trending right across the face to the base of the large shadow/chimney in the upper half of the cliff.
The route follows the left side of the obvious shadows on the third tombstone (right of photo Id# 105922426). Start in the shadow at the bottom trending right across the face to the base of the large shadow/chimney in the upper half of the cliff.
Photos
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