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> Lower Merced Ri…
> At. Reed's Pinn…
> Reed's Pinnacle
Steppin' Out
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 12
votes
Routes in Reed's Pinnacle
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11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Children of Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dream Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flatus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Footprints S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open Your Eyes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Erect T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rorp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Groove (full) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Bridwell , Klemens 1971 |
| Page Views: | 5,026 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Apr 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The first two pitches you probably forget next day , but you have to climb them to approach business pitch
P1. Start from right side of the tree, (20 feet left from start of Ejesta) follow thin crack than face moves to wide crack up to the tree with rappel slings. 130 feet. 5.7-5.8 depending of what you are doing
P2. Traverse left to the corner and climb the corner crack to horn/small pinnacle with the slings . This is top of p2 of Independence Center which share same path with Steppin' Out up to this point. Continue up the corner to the big Bay tree wedged in the crack. Last 30 feet of the corner has a loose rotten rock and it better to avoid it by climbing thin hands crack right of the corner. Surmount the overhanging tree with heel hook and belay there. You can place there medium gear #1, #2 cams and safe big gear for last pitch. 100 feet of 5.8-5.9 depending of what you are doing
P3. You Stepping out from the tree to overhanging right leaning impressive 90 feet OW. Except of first 10 feet of 4" fist crack - it is 5-6" and your knee is In all the way with some exceptions. There are few short sections where your knee do not fit well and this is a cruxes. For my knee size I counted this tree times. There is at least 3 good rests where you can stay forever shaking hands and legs. You can protect the climb very well.
Walking #5/6 cam is possible all the way, but it did not worked for me. Since crack overhanging and both feet was most of the time in the crack - rope was constantly stack between feet and edge of the rock and it was big pain and tremendous efforts to move Cam above your head, so I give up and just climbed it normal way.
P1. Start from right side of the tree, (20 feet left from start of Ejesta) follow thin crack than face moves to wide crack up to the tree with rappel slings. 130 feet. 5.7-5.8 depending of what you are doing
P2. Traverse left to the corner and climb the corner crack to horn/small pinnacle with the slings . This is top of p2 of Independence Center which share same path with Steppin' Out up to this point. Continue up the corner to the big Bay tree wedged in the crack. Last 30 feet of the corner has a loose rotten rock and it better to avoid it by climbing thin hands crack right of the corner. Surmount the overhanging tree with heel hook and belay there. You can place there medium gear #1, #2 cams and safe big gear for last pitch. 100 feet of 5.8-5.9 depending of what you are doing
P3. You Stepping out from the tree to overhanging right leaning impressive 90 feet OW. Except of first 10 feet of 4" fist crack - it is 5-6" and your knee is In all the way with some exceptions. There are few short sections where your knee do not fit well and this is a cruxes. For my knee size I counted this tree times. There is at least 3 good rests where you can stay forever shaking hands and legs. You can protect the climb very well.
Walking #5/6 cam is possible all the way, but it did not worked for me. Since crack overhanging and both feet was most of the time in the crack - rope was constantly stack between feet and edge of the rock and it was big pain and tremendous efforts to move Cam above your head, so I give up and just climbed it normal way.
Location
Route share same start as Independence center, 20 feet left from start of Ejesta. You can not see the 3-d crux pitch from the base of the route, nor from the Reed's parking, but from start of Ejesta you can see this impressive leaning overhanging line in huge right facing corner.
Crux Pitch in the shade after 2 pm
Crux Pitch in the shade after 2 pm
Protection
You need to protect your left knee and both ankles, otherwise you would Not be able to wear short skirt next day.
Before you climb last pitch take off everything from your left side, since you going to be left side in and crack is slightly off-set
Gear in order of appearance:
#4Cam; GreenAlien ; Piton backed up with YellowAlien; #6Friend; #5 Friend; Chock Shown with slings; #5 Cam&old bolt; #6Friend;#5 Cam.
You can add single set from Green Alien to #3Cam.
There is slings around the block and Rap rings at the top of P3.
We did 3rapells with 70m rope. ( Attention!! my rope can be little bit longer than 70m)
1. From top of last pitch with 70M rope STRETCHED!!! directly down to the tree (30 feet below and right of Steppin' Out last belay).
2. From there 100' rap to top of p1 slings.
3. From There 70 M rope STRETCHED!!! rappel to the ground.
Other options - do 4 rappel with 60m rope following different path, or double rope rap
Before you climb last pitch take off everything from your left side, since you going to be left side in and crack is slightly off-set
Gear in order of appearance:
#4Cam; GreenAlien ; Piton backed up with YellowAlien; #6Friend; #5 Friend; Chock Shown with slings; #5 Cam&old bolt; #6Friend;#5 Cam.
You can add single set from Green Alien to #3Cam.
There is slings around the block and Rap rings at the top of P3.
We did 3rapells with 70m rope. ( Attention!! my rope can be little bit longer than 70m)
1. From top of last pitch with 70M rope STRETCHED!!! directly down to the tree (30 feet below and right of Steppin' Out last belay).
2. From there 100' rap to top of p1 slings.
3. From There 70 M rope STRETCHED!!! rappel to the ground.
Other options - do 4 rappel with 60m rope following different path, or double rope rap
8 Comments