Crags near skagway
|
I'm going to be up in Skagway for a day in June and looking for somewhere to climb. The area page seems sparse so I'm hoping there is a local guidebook or additional areas/routes to hit up. Gear or sport routes are both great, ideally looking for anything 5.8-5.11. Does anyone know of other options in addition to what is listed on mountainproject.com/v/skagw… ? |
|
Your best bet would be to reach out the Bill Doctorman via MP. He did A LOT of route development in Skagway and he can give you detailed beta. |
|
What's the deal with the "private" crag? Is it just somewhat of a secret or will the AMG guides actively try to keep non-paying climbers off the routes? Not really interested in hiring a guide service and don't need to maximize the climbing, just hoping to find a good place to kill a day. |
|
Yeah they'll definitely discourage you from even walking up their trail. All of their routes have bolted/chained anchors and they leave tag-lines strung up so they can rig their routes very early in the morning, everyday. Most of the routes at their lower crag are fairly easy routes (up to 5.9ish), but the upper crag(s) supposedly have some much better (progressively harder) routes. |
|
I have lived in Skagway the past 3 summers and worked for Alaska Mountain Guides. If you are only going to be in town for one day, I would definitely go to Black Lakes Crag. There are more routes than are listed on facebook. There are a good mix of sport and trad routes, and several are a mix of trad and sport. There is a good 5.9 sport route/ some say 10a called catholic school girl that is furthest right at crag. There is also a easy 5.7 trad route. Many of the harder climbs can be easily top roped by climbing an easier route and set up from the top. There are a couple fun, but hard mixed routes on the 'red wall.' Jackel and Hyde is one of my favorite routes there, but would be a sketchy lead in the beginning, because the gear is so thin. Goes at a hard 11. Shown in the photo clay meir posted. |
|
Sarah Crosier wrote:\ If you are only going to be in town for one day, I would definitely go to Black Lakes Crag. info!Multiple people have left in an ambulance from the Black Lake Crag? That place can be very dangerous! The rock is better in Dyea and further towards the Yukon border, Golden Canyon is good. Like Foamfinger said, there are some cool peaks to tag out of town and on the pass. If you have the bling it is well worth it to fly in, even for a day, to the Denver glacier, Ferebee Glacier or the Juneau Ice Field. |
|
A few of the AMG Guides have left their yard in Ambulances, shit happens. |
|
FoamFinger wrote:A few of the AMG Guides have left their yard in Ambulances, shit happens.Ha Ha! It's a right of passage in AK to "survive the adventure." I'm just as guilty. |