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Routes in The Waterfall Walls
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Beer and Brats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Leigh Creek Falls WI4 |
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Water into Wine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wine and Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Ice, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,430 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Clay Cundy on Apr 14, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Great multi-pitch Ice route. First pitch bolts are on the right side at the base of the upper falls. Use a tree at the top for the second pitch. As there are established classic sport routes next to the falls, please do not dry tool or mixed climb this route. For the lowest impact, please approach by taking old highway 16, past leigh creek campground, to where it's closed. Park and walk up the road, staying out of the ski tracks (this is an often-used ski route). Walk up until you're parallel with the falls on your right and post hole up to the base. The classic sport route next to it is called Water Into Wine.
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