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> Arches NP
> Park Avenue
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> Cleopatras Rock…
> Lower Tier
Tilting at Windmills
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A3
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in Lower Tier
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Another Zinger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Zinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tom Bepler, Kyle Copeland, Dec., 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,258 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on May 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is located just out of the parking lot on the left. It goes to the top of the formation. It has a very short approach. The crux is the first 20 some feet,... maybe the first 3 placements, which is a shame, because doing dicey aid right off the ground can be dangerous. You have to do something with these sort of blow out holes;....I used those funky-looking big-ol'pika hooks...(toucans, I believe they are called...).....they look wierd but they worked;...I would imagine regular hooks would be too small.....even though the Pika hooks worked;...I was scared non-the-less. (I borrowed them from Dana;..I had never used them before...) I suppose you could just climb the 5.9 Cinnamon Rose, which goes to the same belay, and then do the rest of the Tilting at Windmills......but then, you wouldn't really be doing "the route", would you? The rest of the climb seemed fun and easy. we rapped off to the left, I believe. I did this climb with Dana Adler, in March of 1997. Anyone else do this climb, and have more suggestions of how to do that funky start?
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