Acadia Advice

I'm a fairly new trad leader so I have a small rack: BD Stopper 4-13, C4's 0.5-3, a bunch of slings, plenty of biners...

I'm hoping to do Story of O in a month or so and wanted to see what else I might want on my rack. I don't have a lot of cash to buy gear at this point, but I want to make sure I'm well covered. Is there any natural pro on the route?

You're equipped with about what I had when I did that climb as a relatively new leader. From what I recall (it's been a decade), it had short pitches and abundant opportunities for protection.

While you're out there, don't miss Wafer Step (5.5) and Old Town (5.7). Beware that Old Town is "G" but pretty sustained for the grade.

South Bubble has some easier stuff on it, but the first pitch slab/apron tends to be run out.

That's pretty much what I carried on "Story of O". Plus a few tricams and a few extra stoppers. Don't remember if I used the tricams or not. I do remember natural pro on P1. Gear anchor at P1 and tree anchor at P2. Rap anchors are chains and an easy traverse to climbers left at the end of P3 (gear anchor).

"Old Town" is wonderful @ 5.7 and good pro. One pitch to chains. Very popular. Don't miss it. We finished on "Birch Aid". If you choose to TR "Old Town", you can easily get to the chains via "Precipice Ledges" 5.3

Last pitch of Gunklandia is sandbagged @ 5.7, IMO. And, IIRC, the last rap off of that is a little long. Either downclimb a bit or two ropes.

Out at South Bubbles you might be interested in Escape Hatch and Moraviana both 5.5

Otter Cliff is worth a trip but is usually crowded.

In Sept 2012, Jeff Butterfield (guidebook author) posted this on MP: "If anyone intends to visit and climb in Acadia, please feel free to email me at jeff.butterfield@gmail.com and we can arrange to meet when you arrive so you can borrow a copy of the guidebook for the duration of your stay (I have several copies for that purpose, so multiple folks can take advantage if needed)."

JediGorf wrote:I'm a fairly new trad leader so I have a small rack: BD Stopper 4-13, C4's 0.5-3, a bunch of slings, plenty of biners... I'm hoping to do Story of O in a month or so and wanted to see what else I might want on my rack. I don't have a lot of cash to buy gear at this point, but I want to make sure I'm well covered. Is there any natural pro on the route?

That rack should be fine. If you want to really sew it up, you could use some smaller cams for one or two places.

I am not sure what you mean by natural pro as it is a trad climb (all natural pro-- at least in my mind). The only bolts on the pitch are the rap bolts at the end. While there are a few trees along the way, if you pitch it out as normal you will have to build gear anchors at the top of pitch one and pitch two (there is a tree on the ledge at the top of pitch two but though probably adequate it has been pruned, is not ideally placed, and should be avoided if possible). You can bail left at the top of the first pitch. I think the whole route has been done in one pitch with 70 meter and judicious placement of pro.

I'd also recommend wafer step and Gunklandia (first pitch) as good intro cracks there. They would be fine with that rack and both end in bolted anchors.

Jim

jim.dangle wrote: I am not sure what you mean by natural pro as it is a trad climb (all natural pro-- at least in my mind). The only bolts on the pitch are the rap bolts at the end.

To clarify, I took it that he meant places where he could thread slings or girth hitch trees. I seem to recall a few places in that corner on P1 but not on the rest of the route.

sounds like you have a great rack as is. to add to it a little bit at a time the most bang for your buck for northeast climbing will be an additional #4,#5,#6,#7,#8 stoppers

Thanks all for the advice. I did indeed mean natural pro to be places to girth hitch trees, thread runners, etc. There was a route I used to climb when I lived in Tucson where the only pro needed was a bunch of slings to wrap chicken heads.

Nick, I was thinking about doubling up on the 5-8 stoppers and adding a 0.5 and 1 tricam.

something about the north east those small to fingers stoppers seem to work everywhere. also seem to be very prevelent in red rocks. Done a Utah trip and placed something like 3 stoppers in a week with the rest all cams. cruise down to red rocks and place a bunch of stoppers.

+1 for what nick said. Story of O is super easy to protect tho, you'll be fine with your current rack